Is there a nontoxic method to reglaze a tub?
Q. When I bought my condo 20 years ago, I had the cast-iron tub resurfaced before I moved in. It peeled shortly after, and I had it redone. Now my tub is peeling again, and the bottom area where we stand to take showers is worn. I want to have it resurfaced, but I have read that it is toxic to do so and that you have to leave home for three days. Are there any nontoxic alternatives to resurface cast-iron tubs?
D.S., Watertown
A. We have reglazed tubs before as a cost-saving measure for clients, and our contractor in Watertown tells us that a professionally glazed tub should last at least 10 years. Assuming there isn’t structural failure evident in the walls and floors around the tub, reglazing is a good option, although to a certain extent it depends on the quality and hardness of the water at your home. Unfortunately, I do not know of a nontoxic alternative that is as durable as the reglazing we use. Like anything these days, there are trade-offs. The reglazing process releases volatile organic compounds (VOCs) into the air, which we try to avoid when possible. The carbon footprint of a bath remodel also takes a toll on the environment. Typically, a professional reglazer will ventilate the space, which will allow reentry in 24 hours. The process will take four to five hours from start to finish. The setup time for reusing the tub or shower should be around 48 hours, depending on the humidity and other factors.
Dear Mark
A reader offered an interesting alternative for “Fred,” who wrote Ask the Remodeler about cracking and sagging ceilings in an unheated summer cottage (”Ask the Remodeler: The walls are gone, and the ceilings are cracking,” March 6). “Carl” suggested using Homasote, which is made from 98 percent recycled paper. Homasote would be a very cost-effective solution and could be used in this application. It used to serve as building sheathing, so it is actually a pretty resilient product that will stand up to the seasonal movement of the unheated building. You cannot finish the edges, so installing battens at the seams would be an appropriate finish for a summer cottage. You’ll need to leave a gap between the panels to allow for expansion and contraction. Most Homasotes have a rough and a smooth side. I would leave the smooth side showing so you can prime and paint it.
To toss in my two cents: From a design perspective, you could also use PVC beadboard or V-groove panels. You would install these in the same manner, with a gap between the panels and a batten between all of the seams. This would be a little costlier than the Homosote, but you would get a more finished appearance.
Mark Philben is the project development manager at Charlie Allen Renovations in Cambridge. Send your questions to homerepair@globe.com. Questions are subject to editing. Subscribe to the Globe’s free real estate newsletter — our weekly digest on buying, selling, and design — at Boston.com/address-newsletter. Follow us on X @globehomes.