Roman Holiday
THREE CLASSIC DISHES THAT OFFER A TOUR OF ITALY.
From the bustling streets of Rome to the canals of Venice to the sun-drenched coasts of Sicily and Calabria, these dishes bring the flavors of Italy to your kitchen. For our spaghetti carbonara, we learned to lighten up the Roman classic by using whisked egg yolks to create an airy foam that melds with pecorino Romano cheese to create a creamy sauce. Next, our quick-yet-elegant skillet dish captures the essence of the Veneto region with succulent shrimp and a garlicky tomato sauce, finished with a sprinkling of toasted bread crumbs. Finally, we dress chicken in bright Mediterranean flavors with an herby, citrusy sauce made from lemons caramelized on the grill.
Roman Spaghetti Carbonara MAKES 4 SERVINGS
This brighter take on carbonara came from Pipero Roma in Rome, where the chef whisked the egg yolks until cooked and slightly foamy, creating a sauce that is much lighter in texture than most carbonara recipes. Mixing the yolks with water and cornstarch ensures the cheese won’t clump up when tossed with the pasta.
Bacon cannot be substituted for the pancetta. The smokiness of the bacon will overwhelm the cleaner flavors of the egg-based sauce.
3 ounces thinly sliced pancetta, chopped
6 large egg yolks
2 teaspoons cornstarch
6 ounces pecorino Romano cheese, finely grated (3 cups), plus more to serve
12 ounces spaghetti Kosher salt and ground black pepper
In a 10-inch skillet set over medium heat, cook the pancetta, stirring, until crisp, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper towel-lined plate. Measure out and reserve 3 tablespoons of the rendered fat; if needed, supplement with olive oil. Set the pancetta and fat aside.
In a large pot, bring 4 quarts water to a boil. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, whisk 1OE cups water, the egg yolks, and the cornstarch until smooth. Add the cheese and stir until evenly moistened. Set the pan over mediumlow heat and cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture comes to a gentle simmer and is airy and thickened, 5 to 7 minutes; use a silicone spatula to occasionally get into the corners of the pan. Off heat, whisk in the reserved pancetta fat. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Stir the pasta and 1 tablespoon salt into the boiling water and cook until al dente. Reserve about ½ cup of the cooking water, then drain the pasta very well. Return the pasta to the pot and let cool for about 1 minute.
Pour the pecorino-egg mixture over the pasta and toss with tongs until well combined, then toss in pepper. Let stand, tossing the pasta two or three times, until most of the liquid has been absorbed, about 3 minutes. Crumble in the pancetta, then toss again. The pasta should be creamy but not loose. If needed, toss in up to 2 tablespoons reserved pasta water to adjust the consistency. Transfer to a warmed serving bowl and serve, passing more pecorino and pepper on the side.
Venetian-Style Shrimp in Tomato-White Wine Sauce MAKES 4 SERVINGS
From the coast of Veneto, Italy, gamberi alla busara is a dish of whole shell-on prawns in a garlicky tomato sauce spiked with white wine. For this weeknight version, we use shelled shrimp, but we prefer them jumbo-size (21 to 25 shrimp per pound) so the dish has heft and substance.
Browning shrimp on both sides can cause them to become rubbery and overdone in the finished dish. Instead, we sear only one side to develop flavor from caramelization, not to fully cook the shrimp. They will finish cooking in the sauce at the end.
Some recipes for gamberi alla busara include
bread crumbs that thicken the sauce. We, however, prefer to toast some panko bread crumbs and sprinkle them on top to add crispiness and texture.
Serve with warm crusty bread for dipping into the sauce.
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided
½ cup panko bread crumbs
8 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, divided Kosher salt and ground black pepper
1½ pounds jumbo tail-on (21-25 per pound) shrimp, peeled and deveined, patted dry
6 medium garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 medium shallot, finely chopped
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
½ cup dry white wine
28- ounce can whole peeled tomatoes, crushed by hand
In a 12-inch nonstick skillet set over medium-high heat, heat 2 tablespoons of oil until it shimmers. Add the panko and cook, stirring often, until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in 2 tablespoons of parsley and ae teaspoon each salt and black pepper; set aside.
In the same skillet set over medium-high heat, warm 1 tablespoon of the oil until it shimmers. Add half the shrimp in an even layer and cook without disturbing until golden brown on the bottoms, 1 to 2 minutes; transfer to a large plate. Repeat with another 1 tablespoon oil and the remaining shrimp; set the shrimp aside.
In the same skillet set over medium-high, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil until it shimmers. Add the garlic, shallot, and pepper flakes, then cook, stirring constantly, until the garlic is light golden brown, about 30 seconds. Add the wine and cook, stirring, until the liquid has almost evaporated, 30 to 60 seconds. Add the tomatoes with juices and ae teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is slightly thickened, 6 to 7 minutes.
Add the shrimp and accumulated juices to the pan, along with the remaining 6 tablespoons parsley. Cook, stirring, until the shrimp are opaque throughout, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a serving dish and sprinkle with the toasted bread crumbs.
Grilled Chicken Salmoriglio MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Extra virgin olive oil, lemon, garlic, and herbs constitute salmoriglio, a sauce/marinade from southern Italy (specifically, Calabria and Sicily). Grilling the lemons before juicing them mellows their sharpness and acidity, adding a subtle sweetness to the sauce. Our version is made with grated zest in the marinade; we then add the juice to finish the sauce just before serving.
If you opt to use a mixture of bone-in chicken breasts and thighs or drumsticks (or leg quarters), keep in mind that the white meat is done at 160 degrees and the dark meat at 175 degrees, so the breasts may finish ahead of the legs.
Use tongs rather than a fork to move the chicken pieces on the grill. A fork creates holes that allow juices to escape, resulting in drier meat.
2 lemons
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 medium garlic cloves, finely grated
1 teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
3 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken parts, trimmed
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Grate 2 teaspoons zest from the lemons, then halve them crosswise and set aside. In a small bowl, stir together the zest, oil, garlic, oregano, 1ae teaspoons salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper. Transfer ae cup of the mixture to a large bowl, add the chicken, and turn to coat. Marinate at room temperature while preparing the grill.
Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for indirect cooking.
For a charcoal grill, ignite a large chimney of coals, let burn until lightly ashed over, then distribute the coals evenly over one side of the grill bed and open the bottom grill vents. Heat the grill, covered, for 5 minutes, then clean and oil the cooking grate.
For a gas grill, turn all burners to high and heat, covered, for 15 minutes, then clean and oil the cooking grate; leave the primary burner on high and turn the remaining burner(s) to low.
Place the chicken skin side up on the cooler side of the grill. Cover and cook for 15 minutes. Using tongs, reposition the chicken so that the pieces farthest from the fire are now closest; keep the chicken skin side up. Re-cover and continue to cook until the thickest part of the breast, if using, reaches 160 degrees or the thickest parts of the thighs and drumsticks, if using, reach 175 degrees, another 5 to 10 minutes.
Using tongs, flip the chicken skin side down onto the hot side of the grill. Cook until the skin is lightly browned and crisp, 1 to 2 minutes, moving the chicken as needed to avoid flare-ups. Transfer the chicken skin side up to a platter and let rest for about 5 minutes.
While the chicken rests, grill the lemon halves cut side down on the hot side of the grate until grillmarked, 2 to 3 minutes. Squeeze 2½ tablespoons juice from 1 or 2 of the grilled lemon halves, then stir the juice along with the parsley into the reserved garlic-lemon oil to make the salmoriglio. Serve the sauce and the remaining grilled lemon halves with the chicken.