Salad makes a nice base for fish
Sometimes, you just have to trust a chef's instincts – as in the case of this salad, topped or strewn with just-sauteed fish. It works, thanks to the concert composed of parsnip and carrot sweetness, the smokiness of crisped bacon bits, the yielding frill of slightly wilted kale and a simple vinaigrette.
The chef is Britain's Nathan Outlaw, and the dish comes from his second cookbook, "Everyday Seafood" (Quadrille, April 2017). It's worth a look for those who are keen to venture beyond salmon, tuna, shrimp and crab, although those are certainly given their due.
Rockfish was looking good the day we went shopping; the crispy skin provides a bonus textural element here. But just about any white-fleshed fish fillets will do.
Rockfish, Bacon, Kale and Parsnip Salad (2 to 3 servings)
Serve with garlic bread.
Adapted from "Everyday Seafood: From the Simplest Fish to a Seafood Feast, 100 Recipes for Home Cooking," by Nathan Outlaw (Quadrille, 2017).
INGREDIENTS
3 slices smoky bacon, preferably center-cut
1 large parsnip
1 large carrot
1 clove garlic
8 ounces (half a bunch) curly kale Kosher or sea salt Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
12 ounces rockfish fillets, preferably skin-on (may substitute other white-fleshed fish)
4 stems flat-leaf parsley
1/2 lemon
1/2 teaspoon honey Extra-virgin olive oil
STEPS
Line a plate with a few layers of paper towels. Cut the bacon crosswise into 1/4- inch pieces, then place it in a wok or well-seasoned cast-iron skillet; cook for about 6 minutes over medium-high heat, until crisped.
Meanwhile, trim and peel the parsnip and carrot. Use a chef's knife to cut them into matchsticks. Cut the garlic into thin slivers. Strip the leaves from the kale stems; tear the leaves into large pieces and cut the stems into 1/2- inch pieces. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the bacon to the paper-towel-lined plate. Pour off all but a tablespoon or two of the rendered bacon fat and return the pan to medium-high heat. Add the parsnip and carrot, kale stem pieces and garlic; season lightly with salt and pepper. Stir-fry for a minute or so, then transfer to a mixing bowl.
Add half the butter to the skillet (over medium-high heat); add the kale leaves and use tongs to toss for about 30 seconds, just until coated but not so long that the leaves will be wilted. Transfer to the bowl with the parsnip mixture.
Season the fish lightly with salt and pepper on both sides. Add the remaining butter to the skillet (over medium-high heat). Once it melts, add the fish, skin sides down; cook for a few minutes (pressing with a spatula to keep the fillets from curling under), just until opaque, then gently turn the fillets. Remove from the heat; the holdover heat of the pan should finish cooking the fish.
Finely chop the parsley leaves. Use a Microplane grater to zest the lemon half into the bowl of vegetables, then squeeze the juice into a liquid measuring cup. Add the honey and a drizzle of oil; season lightly with salt and pepper, then use a fork to whisk together a well-blended dressing.
To assemble, pour that dressing into the bowl of vegetables. Add the crisped bacon pieces and the parsley; toss gently to coat.
Divide between individual plates. Place a fillet, skin side up, on each portion, or first break it up with your fingers and scatter the fish over each portion.
Serve right away.