Asparagus mimosa is France’s sunny, eggy ode to spring

Come spring, who can’t relate to asparagus?

It hibernates all winter – the “crown” and its roots lurking underground – and only when the soil warms and the light changes does it send shoots upward until they poke through the surface and start stretching toward the sun, painting the brown garden in shades of green and purple. Sunlight is crucial: The chlorophyll that gives most asparagus its green color converts the sun’s energy into sustenance. (White asparagus is such because growers keep it in the dark, covered with mulch or soil.)

A fresh start as the days lengthen: This defines the promise of spring, for us as much as for asparagus and other vegetables. We put the darkness behind us – or try to, anyway – and reach for the light.

In the kitchen, asparagus shines in the spring, especially when paired with eggs, one of its favorite partners. Is it just because both are so plentiful this time of year, when hens who slowed down or even stopped laying have resumed their output? The dishes that use the two together seem innumerable, perhaps because they include the classic and the new, the tried-and-true and the why-not. There’s asparagus hollandaise, asparagus frittata, even just asparagus with scrambled or fried or poached eggs. Every spring, I gorge on the spears, roasting, steaming and sauteing until I get my fill, which usually doesn’t happen until they’re no longer available.

Asparagus Mimosa

4 servings

Active time: 25 mins;|Total time: 35 mins This classic French dish bathes steamed asparagus in a Dijon-honey vinaigrette and tops the spears with fluffy shreds of hardcooked eggs. It gets its name from how the grated (or chopped or sieved) yolks resemble delicate mimosa flowers. This recipe streamlines the prep, cutting down on dishes by steaming the asparagus and eggs together and using the same ice bath to cool them.

Make ahead: The vinaigrette can be made, the asparagus and eggs steamed, and the eggs peeled up to 2 days in advance. Dress the asparagus and grate the eggs just before serving.

Storage: The composed dish is best when freshly made, but you can refrigerate it for up to 4 days.

INGREDIENTS

2 pounds asparagus spears

4 large eggs

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon honey or agave nectar

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon fine salt, plus more to taste

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

STEPS

Snap the tough ends off the asparagus spears. In a medium bowl, prepare an ice bath.

In a large pot over high heat, bring about 1 inch of water to a boil. Put the eggs on one side of a steamer insert that fits in the pot, and gently lower the steamer into the pot. Pile the asparagus onto the other side of the steamer so you avoid covering up the eggs. Reduce the heat to medium, cover and set a timer for 13 minutes.

Steam the asparagus and eggs until the asparagus is bright green and crisp-tender, 5 to 7 minutes. (A spear should offer little resistance when pierced with a paring knife and should bend slightly without breaking; if your asparagus is on the thinner side, start checking after 3 minutes.) Use tongs to immediately transfer the asparagus to the ice bath, and quickly re-cover the pot to continue steaming the eggs.

While the eggs are cooking, transfer the asparagus spears to a clean dish towel, and use another clean towel to thoroughly pat them dry.

When the eggs have cooked for 13 minutes, use a slotted spoon to transfer them to the same ice bath, adding more ice cubes if needed, and let sit for a few minutes to cool. Peel the eggs immediately.

While the eggs are cooling, in a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, honey or agave, mustard, salt and a few grinds of black pepper until smooth and emulsified. Taste, and season with more salt if needed.

Transfer the asparagus to a platter, and drizzle all the dressing over the spears.

Cut the eggs in half and scoop out the yolks. Use the fine side of a box grater or a Microplane rasp grater to finely shred the egg whites, piling them in a strip across the asparagus. Use the same grater to shred the egg yolks, and sprinkle them over the whites, keeping the two distinct. (If you’d like, you can press the whites and the yolks through a fine-mesh strainer instead, or use a knife to finely chop them, keeping them separate.)