Skincare Trends

What’s hot and here to stay

Cleopatra, the sole female of the ancient world to rule alone and control the largest territory, could alleviate a famine, build a fleet, suppress an insurrection—all while rocking her beauty routine, which probably included elements such as alpha hydroxy acid, fruit enzymes, and other “trendy” ingredients.

In the skincare business, beauty trends rapidly appear on the scene, with most fading fast. But some stay indefinitely and revolutionize the industry forever, changing formulations and the way we think about skincare offerings. What differentiates between a skincare dud and a skincare keeper, and where does the staying power of some beauty products potentially lie? A test of what stays “hot” and what’s “forgot” in the beauty industry is whether these newly discovered and innovative ingredients actually work. Cleo was onto something with her bathing routine, which would soften and hydrate her skin. Little did she know that those creamy warm milk baths contained lactic acid, now recognized as a gently exfoliating alpha hydroxy acid. Also, enzymes from ripening fruit that can be applied to the skin as a “mask” break down dead skin cells, helping to impart a healthy glow and even texture to skin. Because of the effectiveness of Cleopatra’s products, the popularity of these once “trendy” ingredients is still high and continuing to climb.

What are some modern trendy skincare treatments that will most likely linger? Consider the following:

Disappearing are the days of hard-core chemical peels. Most people don’t want the downtime that comes with a red, irritated, and flaky face that can last up to a week. Research indicates that hitting the skin with lower levels of acid more frequently is just as, or even more, effective than a yearly peel. Alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic, lactic, and mandelic are the preferred ingredients to exfoliate skin and stimulate collagen and elastin production; these are the struc

Low-level Peels.

tural proteins that make your face firm. The result is smooth, taut skin with less hyperpigmentation and more get-up and glow. Allies of Skin makes a Mandelic Pigment Corrector Night Serum that features an 11 percent blend of acids to banish brown spots and recharge cells.

Light-emitting diodes (LEDs) were actually first developed in 1927 by a Russian inventor with no formal education or research positions, yet he followed his passion to become the super scientist of semiconductors. Oleg Losev figured out how these light-emitting diodes worked and then pegged some practical uses for them.

So, how do they work? Simply stated, an LED converts electrical energy into light energy, and the color comes from the diode itself, not some painted-on coating or bulb. When skin is exposed to LEDs of different wavelengths, different positive outcomes are realized in the skin.

Red wavelengths of light are the anti-aging LEDs, and you would be smart to incorporate them into your daily skincare regime. You already know how acids can help stimulate collagen and new cell growth, but this modality does not depend on traumatizing the skin to elicit a healing response. This method is atraumatic, meaning the skin does not have to be damaged before the miraculous makeover begins. No redness. No downtime. No weird side effects. That means you can begin using LEDs at any time, even when approaching beach or holiday soiree season.

Studies show that red light activates fibroblast growth factor, increases type 1 pro-collagen, and decreases the enzyme MMP-1 that breaks down collagen. Simply stated, it stimulates new cells with increased collagen while simultaneously slowing down the enzyme that destroys your precious collagen. Now you are beginning to understand why you need to bring one of these LED wands home and use it on a daily basis. Use of red LED reduces bruising and swelling after plastic surgery and helps to speed up wound healing after laser treatments. People also experience significantly improved skin complexions and skin texture. Check out the LightStim LED Wand for Wrinkles.

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Red LED.

Behold the benefits of red LED:

Has anti-aging and regenerative effects. Increases rate of healing.

Increases collagen production. Decreases the enzyme that breaks down collagen.

A test of what stays “hot” and what’s “forgot” in the beauty industry is whether these newly discovered and innovative ingredients actually work.

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Increases circulation. Evens skin tone and texture.

There is no excuse for not taking time to mask. These newly formulated innovative products mean that you can enjoy the benefits of masking in your sleep. Quickly absorbing with no messiness, stickiness, or cleanup, you just apply a thin layer before bed and let the elixir work its magic for the next eight hours. Choose a mask that will specifically help with what troubles you and wake up to a “new and improved” you. NUÄGE9’s Sleep It Off Slumber Mask contains ceramides and Syricalm to hydrate skin, restoring moisture balance and soothing irritation caused by the environment, particularly overexposure to sun and air conditioning.

Develop a long-term relationship with a skincare trend worthy of retention. These luxurious and reparative treatments make a visible positive improvement in skin for results that will stand the test of time.

Sleep-on Masks.

Tanis Rhines is a cellular and molecular scientist turned esthetician. She is the author of the irreverent esthetic exposé, Face It! Harsh Skincare Truths Every Esthetician Should Know... And So Should You.