Chattanooga Times Free Press - ChattanoogaNow

Tacos El Cunao serves up variety, authentici­ty

- STAFF WRITER

Finding the right Mexican restaurant is no easy feat. Most non-Hispanics have an idea of what Mexican food should be, though not many have an idea of what it is. All too often, folks conflate Tex- Mex creations for the authentic thing.

However, some people just prefer Tex- Mex, which can’t be discounted. What’s a prospectiv­e diner to do?

Well, if you find yourself on Lee Highway, look no further than Tacos El Cunao to sate your southof-the-border hunger. This unassuming little restaurant served up exactly what I was looking for.

THE SPACE

Tacos El Cunao is adjacent to a Mexican homegoods store. Supermarke­t windows across the street have no hint of English, and there are lots of bilingual signs. I was confidant that I was in the right place for good Mexican food.

Entering the restaurant, I was immediatel­y greeted by a telenovela playing sans subtitles on a large television in the corner. The place was pretty quiet, though it soon filled as I ordered and ate.

THE FOOD

I was seated in short order and provided chips and salsa, though I had to ask. The salsa was hot enough to whet my appetite but not hot enough to spoil it. The menu was gargantuan, and the primary headings for each dish were in Spanish. Most had English translatio­ns to the side, and the smattering of Spanish I remember from the foreign-language classes in high school finally paid dividends as I was able to make out what the translatio­n-less dishes

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