Chattanooga Times Free Press

Sweet Basil a little short on spice

- BY CHRIS ZELK STAFF WRITER Contact Chris Zelk at czelk@timesfreep­ress.com or call 423-757-6244.

There’s something about the way flavors coalesce in Thai food. Sweet. Sour. Spicy. The exotic subtleties tease the senses and satisfy the palette. With an emphasis on fresh ingredient­s and light sauces, Thai just feels healthier than a lot of other foods.

Serious fans of Asian cuisine in general and Thai in particular, Susie and I decided to revisit Sweet Basil Thai Cuisine and Sushi Bar as a sort of early anniversar­y dinner. Although we enjoyed it a lot some 10 years ago, we hadn’t made it back until now.

We found the place virtually unchanged — same clean, elegant, white décor in a romantic, low-lit setting. Same minimalist dining room layout. We were even seated at the same table as last time.

THE SPACE

Located at the front end of one of Brainerd’s ubiquitous strip malls, Sweet Basil doesn’t pack a lot of curb appeal, but inside is a different story. Booths are clean and comfortabl­e. Subtle music playing in the background mutes Brainerd Road’s constant procession of motorists.

THE FOOD

Sweet Basil has an extensive menu of more than 40 appetizers , entrees, soups, salads and noodles, as well as a respectabl­e variety of sushi.

For starters we ordered Sweet Basil Cups ($6.50). These tiny pastry cups, elegantly crafted and filled with minced chicken, shrimp, cucumber, corn and spices and served with a light chutney, were delicious — the perfect blend of taste and texture. Other appetizers with potential include Chicken Satay, Sarong-Shrimp and Fried Spring Roll.

After weighing a number of tempting dinner options, including MasamanKai and Panang Curry, we settled on the Gingerine, sauteed chicken with ginger and scallions in a Thai herb sauce ($ 10.50), and Spicy Basil Leaves with beef, sauteed with garlic and Thai chili sauce ($10.50).

The menu includes a helpful key that rates each dish according to spiciness. Although the menu promised the Spicy Basil Leaves would have a fair amount of heat (“will set lips and tongues tingling”), the dish we received was more on the bland side, and the flavor of the basil didn’t really come through. The vegetables were good and fresh, though.

Gingerine was much better — tender chicken with lots of bits of aromatic ginger. The herb sauce was a good complement.

The portions for both were large enough to be filling and still have some to take home.

THE SERVICE

No complaints. Our server was attentive throughout the meal, arriving at just the right times to refill drinks and answer any questions we had. The food arrived hot and in a reasonable amount of time.

THE VERDICT

While this meal was a bit of a letdown in some respect, occasional­ly good restaurant­s misstep. We had an excellent experience at Sweet Basil in the past so, giving the restaurant the benefit of the doubt, we’ll be back at some point to try the Mango Shrimp or perhaps the Spicy Red Curry. And definitely another order of Sweet Basil Cups.

 ?? PHOTOS BY CHRIS ZELK ?? Sweet Basil Cups, from the appetizers menu, contain a blend of minced chicken, shrimp, cucumber, corn and spices in small pastry cups and served with a light chutney.
PHOTOS BY CHRIS ZELK Sweet Basil Cups, from the appetizers menu, contain a blend of minced chicken, shrimp, cucumber, corn and spices in small pastry cups and served with a light chutney.
 ??  ?? Sweet Basil Thai Cuisine’s menu includes Gingerine left, and Spicy Basil Leaves among its entrees. Gingerine is a blend of sautéed chicken, fresh ginger and scallions in a Thai herb sauce. Spicy Basil Leaves is made with a choice of chicken, beef or...
Sweet Basil Thai Cuisine’s menu includes Gingerine left, and Spicy Basil Leaves among its entrees. Gingerine is a blend of sautéed chicken, fresh ginger and scallions in a Thai herb sauce. Spicy Basil Leaves is made with a choice of chicken, beef or...

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