A favorite summer pasta gets a new ingredient
There’s a lot of zucchini at the market. And in the garden. And in the neighbor’s garden. Yes, it is prolific, but a lot of effort went into getting it to grow. Why not give in and enjoy a daily helping of freshly picked zucchini while it’s here? There are so many ways to prepare it, whether steamed, fried, pickled or in pasta.
In fact, zucchini pasta is a summer favorite. My go-to recipe features longcooked zucchini, ricotta, Parmesan and basil. It’s so quick, easy and satisfying that I could make it once a week and never tire of it. But a couple of gifts arrived in my kitchen, and I now have a new favorite version.
A gardener friend gave me a basket full of gorgeous zucchini and other colorful summer squash. A chef friend gave me some lovely Italian bottarga, its lobes sealed in wax. It seemed only right to marry them.
Bottarga, in case you are not familiar with it, is the salted, cured roe of grey mullet or tuna, considered a delicacy by many. It is especially beloved in Sardinia and Sicily but is enjoyed throughout the Mediterranean and around the world.
I have heard bottarga described as the prosciutto of the sea by some and the truffle of the sea by others. It is likened to prosciutto because it is a cured, salty, deeply flavorful product; to truffles because of its umami-rich qualities.
Often, pastas are topped or tossed with grated bottarga. Sometimes, it is served in paperthin slices, on its own with a drizzle of fine olive oil, or added to salads or egg dishes.
Though bottarga is made from salted fish eggs, it doesn’t taste fishy. It has a bright, briny tanginess. The two most common types are bottarga di muggine, made from grey mullet roe (it has a milder flavor and golden color), and costlier bottarga di tonno, made from tuna roe (somewhat bolder in taste and reddish brown). It is definitely worth keeping some bottarga on hand to use when the mood strikes — an opened package can be stored in the refrigerator for months. An easy snack is grated or sliced bottarga on warm buttered toast.
I love the way bottarga enlivens this spaghetti, mingling with the mild, sweet zucchini. There’s a bit of lemon zest to cut through the saltiness and a simple cheeseless, nutless parsley pesto that adds a hint of garlic and a touch of green (basil would be too distracting). Crisp golden breadcrumbs are a welcome part of the mix, too.
Give it a try. But also know that, should you desire, the zucchini alone, with bottarga and no pasta, is lovely; and the pasta alone, with bottarga and no zucchini, is gorgeous, too.
Spaghetti With Zucchini, Parsley Pesto and Bottarga
Yield: 4 to 6 servings Total time: 1 hour
For the pesto:
2 cups roughly chopped
parsley
4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped, or 2 tablespoons finely chopped green garlic Salt and pepper
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
For the pasta:
1 pound spaghetti 2 tablespoons extra-virgin
olive oil
2 pounds medium zucchini, cut in 1/2-inch cubes (about 4 cups) Salt and pepper Large pinch of red-pepper
flakes 1 teaspoon grated lemon
zest
4 tablespoons grated bottarga (4 to 6 ounces)
About 1/2 cup toasted breadcrumbs (see note at bottom of recipe) Lemon wedges, for serving
Make the pesto: Put parsley in a food processor or blender. Add garlic, a good pinch of salt, black pepper to taste and olive oil. Whirl to make a smooth sauce. You should have about 1 cup of pesto.
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Cook spaghetti according to package directions until al dente, erring on the slightly underdone side.
While the pasta cooks, put about 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Saute the zucchini for about 2 minutes. Let it brown a little. Add salt, pepper, red-pepper flakes and lemon zest.
Add drained pasta to skillet along with half the pesto. Toss everything together. Taste, and add more salt or pesto as needed. (Wrap and refrigerate any remaining pesto for up to 2 days or freeze for future use.)
Divide pasta among individual plates, and sprinkle generously with bottarga. Top with breadcrumbs, and serve with lemon wedges.
Note: To make toasted breadcrumbs, combine 1 cup coarse breadcrumbs with 1 tablespoon olive oil and a pinch of salt. Spread evenly on a baking sheet. Bake at 375 degrees until lightly browned and crisp, about 10 minutes. Cool and store in an airtight container at room temperature until ready to use.