More turn to U.K. food banks as food, fuel bills soar

LONDON — For many struggling families, older people and the homeless, Michelle Dornelly’s food hub in east London has been a lifeline. Since the COVID-19 pandemic hit Britain, she has been collecting surplus groceries from supermarkets and distributing them to people who can’t afford to buy food.

While the virus threat has faded, the need for food banks in Britain has soared. Skyrocketing energy and food bills are pushing millions deeper into financial hardship, and food banks and community groups like Dornelly’s across the United Kingdom say they don’t have enough to feed the growing numbers of desperate people knocking at their doors.

“We are struggling as it is, but right now we’re in a bubbling pot. You’re getting people panicking,” she said, dishing up turkey curry and onion bhajis to serve people recently. “We used to be able to run to 4 p.m., but now by 2:30, all the food’s gone.”

Dornelly offers groceries and free hot meals every week to several dozen regulars in Hackney, an inner London borough with high rates of inequality: almost half of all children there are in poverty. Since the winter, at least 30 to 40 new people have been referred to her, she says.

The cost of food and fuel in the U.K. has risen sharply, with inflation reaching 9% in April — the highest in 40 years. The same month, millions of families saw their annual energy bills jump by 54%, amounting to an extra $863 a year on average for each household. On Tuesday, Britain’s energy regulator warned that domestic energy bills could shoot up again by another 800 pounds per annum in the autumn, as Russia’s war in Ukraine and rebounding demand after the pandemic push oil and natural gas prices higher.

Food businesses have had to pass on higher costs to shoppers, who already have less in their pockets because pay is failing to keep up with price increases. Those on low incomes and dependent on state welfare have been hit hardest. In October, Britain’s government stopped paying an extra $25 per week benefit payment that was introduced during the pandemic.

Other parts of the world are struggling, too, as inflation bites. Europe has seen surging consumer prices, causing sticker shock at the grocery store. In the U.S., food banks say rising food and gas prices and overall inflation are intensifying demand for their support, while their labor and distribution costs are climbing and donations are slowing.

“I suppose it’s the way life is going. But it shouldn’t be going so drastically,” said Dave Anderson, one of Dornelly’s regulars.

The 62-year-old hasn’t been able to work or take care of himself since he had heart surgery and was left with no electricity or gas at home until volunteers found him. The 118 pounds ($145) of benefits he gets every two weeks don’t go far.

“Me, I’ve not even looked at my bills because I think I’d want to sit there and cry,” Dornelly said. “I don’t understand why the politicians are allowing this to happen.”