Chicago Sun-Times

WINE REVIEW: Sip this ‘best value’ from Spain,

A favorite from where red wine rules the region

- BY W. PETER HOYNE

Tucked away in the southweste­rn corner of Spain is the region of Calatayud where red wine production remains dominant and the Garnacha grape is the majestic ruler. Garnacha is also known as Grenache and is a versatile grape that thrives in warm Mediterran­ean climates with a strong presence in the southern regions of France. Importer Jorge Ordonez revitalize­d the world’s interest in the wines of Spain and among his strengths is his representa­tions of Garnacha. Bodegas Breca is 650 acres and was founded by Ordonez in 2005. Among its labels are a younger vine “Garnacha de Fuego” and the older sibling of “Breca.” The Breca comes from vines that are 65-80 years old with a small yield of only one ton per acre of fruit. Planted at high elevations these steep hillside soils are composed of slate and clay. The combinatio­n of high elevation and low yields produces a concentrat­ed Garnacha with dense textural qualities. The 2010 Bodegas Breca “Breca” is a brilliant opaque purple color with a delicate fragrance of freshly crushed berries. This wine has a silky fabric with a generous serving of black raspberry marmalade and candied mulberries that are dusted with cocoa. The tannins are sweet and integrated. Although attractive now, its true potential may be realized in a few years. Since this wine has been highly touted as one of the best recent values from Spain, it may be wise to stock up before inventorie­s are depleted. Suggested retail - $16.99

W. Peter Hoyne has been a wine journalist for over 20 years, covering stories of national and internatio­nal significan­ce. While his profession­al relationsh­ips in the wine industry have allowed him to share a unique perspectiv­e of wine, he is also intrigued by the culinary aspect and harmony that exist between wine and food. As a wine advocate, he is committed to consumer education and is focused on upcoming trends and American wine-buying habits.

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