SCHNITZEL KING

BRIDGEPORT | $ On wheels throughout the city since 2011, Schnitzel King now has this stationary portal from which to sell their enormous breaded-and-fried meat sandwiches (and sausages and potato salad and pierogi), a sign they’re doing well. Perhaps too well: on a recent Monday evening there were no more eggs to make a Holstein—a pork or chicken schnitzel stuffed inside a Turano roll and topped with cheese, peppers, and a fried egg—nor was there any King’s red sauce, house-made marinara, to go on the Saucey or Eggplant schnitzels. But we were promptly given a couple complimentary mugs of Filbert’s Root Beer and a slab of liverwurst, and once we got a start on our Chicago-style pork schnitzel, gigantic Polish sausage, chicken schnitzel fingers, and potato salad in Armour Square Park across the street (Schnitzel King has nary a chair or picnic table), we were reluctant to allow the flies to scare us off because everything we’d carried away from the window in that brown paper bag was so much fun. The sandwiches are enormous and inexpensive to boot, but even more impressive is their quality: the schnitzels are encased in a crispy, golden-brown pankolike crust and still hugely juicy inside, and the Polish sausages, made and smoked in-house, rival anything I’ve had here (and that includes the old Polish Broadway on North Milwaukee Avenue). Even the potato salad was a highlight—superfresh tasting, incredibly simple, and just $1 per serving (I wanted two). — GWYNEDD STUART 308 W. 33rd, 312-225-7250, chicagoschnitzelking.blogspot.com. Lunch, dinner: Mon-Sat.