DIG INTO UPSCALE PUB FARE AT LAKEVIEW’S BENTLEY TAVERN
Pub classics get an upscale twist at Lakeview’s Bentley Tavern
Bentley Tavern’s menu straddles the line between fine dining and local tavern, and chef Ian
Flowers (inset) likes it that way. “A 50-seat restaurant is ideal for a chef to show what he can do,” he says.
Inside the new Lakeview restaurant, you’ll find sophisticated dishes not generally synonymous with with “tavern.” There’s a full selection of shells, including raw oysters on the half shell ($3), snow crab claws ($12) and tavern clams, made with peppers, sausage, garlic and a light lager beer ($15). “Everybody does mussels, but nobody does clams,” Flowers says, noting that they’re a best-seller. There’s also a series of craft cocktails and a snacks section that includes mushrooms and toast with manchego and pea vine ($8) and crab cakes ($9).
But even Flowers knows it wouldn’t be a neighborhood tavern without a burger ($14). Bentley Tavern’s burger is, naturally, a little more upscale — made with grass-fed beef, a pretzel bun and bacon — but it’s also got lettuce, onion and tomato, “which every burger should have,” Flowers says. Here’s what else to expect at Bentley Tavern:
Chef stats: Flowers got his start in the restaurant biz at age 15 as a dishwasher and busboy. After a couple of years as a server, “I decided to try my hand in the kitchen,” he says. So he moved to Chicago to attend culinary school, then worked at South Water Kitchen (225 N. Wabash), Atwood Cafe (1 W. Washington) and, most recently, Bucktown’s Lokal (1904 W. North).
Vibe: Charming and casual with a touch of elegance, just like the food. The front of the restaurant is dominated by the bar, an original from Lucca’s, which occupied the space for 28 years. (The historic spot has also been a brothel, accordion school and art gallery since its construction more than 100 years ago.) The cool marble bar top is new, as are the subway tiles that line the walls. Cream-colored molding and huge French doors bring light and sophistication to the space without making it stuffy, and the high tables in front tempt passersby to shore up for an after-work drink.
Must-try dish: Chicken drumettes (a French play on a buffalo wing, served with a Korean chili glaze, $10) are perfect for midweek munching, while dishes such as black cod with sweet and sour peppers and asiago risotto ($22) are great for classing it up on a Friday night. Soon, Flowers hopes to set up special dinners with brewers, winemakers and farmers, and he wants to craft a slightly fancier tasting menu.
Early bird: The patio wraps all the way around the restaurant; now that Flowers is serving a “simple, approachable” brunch, this quiet, flower-covered corner of the city is ideal for a Sunday morning repast. Stop by for frittatas ($12), house-made cinnamon rolls ($9), and eggs Benedict with pork belly and a corn cake ($12).