WEST COAST

Kumamoto, Washington

These oysters are some of the more approachable West Coast types; they’re relatively small and lightly flavored, with sweet hints of melon. “Kumamotos work best with subtle mignonettes or relishes that use Champagne or apple cider vinegar with water to reduce acidity,” says Michael

Kornick, chef and owner of Fish Bar.

Kusshi, British Columbia

Meaning “precious” in Japanese, these diminutive oysters are similar in size to Kumamoto. “Kusshi are heavily tumbled [jostled in floating trays], so the oysters become meaty balls, with beautiful blue notes on the shell,” says Mark Palicki, vice president of marketing at Fortune Fish, a local seafood distributor. “They have a clean, lettuce-like flavor, are easy to eat and perfect for cocktail hour. Women like them because they’re dainty and cool-looking.”

Jorstad Creek, Washington This mollusk qualifies as pleasingly plump and slightly sweet. With these and other oysters, LaHaie prefers a white wine accompaniment. “A Muscadet, or American Sauvignon Blanc, but nothing too grassy,” he says. “I find that the grassy and citrus flavors of some Sauvignons fight the oyster taste.”

Fanny Bay, British Columbia

According to Kornick, these plump oysters, are good for cooking, though he warns, “The goal is to change the temperature, not the texture, of the mollusk.” Kornick suggests gently warming oysters, then tossing with oyster-size gnocchi, brown butter and lemon.

Penn Cove Select, Washington

“They’re firmer and brinier than most West Coast oysters with a clean finish, plump, with a natural sweetness, perfect for frying,” says Giuseppe Tentori, who heads up GT Fish & Oyster. To drink, Tentori suggests Junmai Daiginjo sake — its mild sweetness pairs well with West Coast varieties.