Upping the ante
The Three Aces team lays out all their cards with new Italian spot Charlatan
It seems spending time in Little Italy has rubbed off on Anthony Potenzo, Lyle Aker and Matt Troost. The “Three Aces” behind the popular rock ‘n’roll bar on Taylor Street had only Italian cuisine in mind when creating their second concept, Charlatan, which recently debuted in the space left vacant by West Town Tavern.
The trio isn’t afraid to make sure their spot stands out from its more traditional neighbors. Take the “authentic pasta shapes you won’t see on anyone else’s menu,” says Potenzo, referring to the agnolotti, served with sweet potato, venison, ricotta salata, pine nuts and brown butter ($12-$21) and the trottole, made with house ricotta, vodka sauce, basil, Parmesan and arugula ($7-$12).
Then there’s the showstopper: a whole pig’s head for two ($55).“It’s old-school Italian,” says Potenzo, whose grandfather made the delicacy for holidays and special occasions before “chasing the kids around with the eyeballs.” At Charlatan, there’s no chasing— but you will meet the blank stares of the taxidermied animal heads on the back wall. (There’s another good story behind one of them, too— just ask Aker after you’ve already enjoyed your dinner.)
Here’s what else to expect at Charlatan:
Menu breakdown: Trusted executive chef Troost developed the “Italian-countryside-meets-Midwestern-farmhouse” menu, highlighted by “salt and time” appetizers like the grilled octopus ($12) and whipped mortadella ($8), plus large “rolled and extruded” plates including squid-ink lumache ($8-$14) and the whole oxtail with potato puree, horseradish, watercress and beef jus ($58). The dishes are all seasonal and supported by a hearty and mostly imported wine selection — a change from the beer-focused program at Three Aces.
Behind the seams: The servers all look the part in custom-----
designed, butcher-style aprons made by Aker’s talented wife
Holly. “She got on her sewing machine and whipped them all up one day,” says Aker, noting that each has different details if you look closely. Holly didn’t stop there— she also crafted the all-white sheer curtains.
New York state of mind: “We love New York so much,” Aker says of the partners, who wanted the feel of Charlatan to echo an intimate spot in Brooklyn or SoHo. In addition to the distressed exposed brick, the wall décor and bar and light fixtures were all made with refurbished water pipes. The finishing touch is the cartoonish Andy Warhol Flavor Paper wall covering they custom-ordered for the back wall.
Hot shots: In keeping with the theme, head bartender Alex Gara (The Dawson, Mindy’s Hot Chocolate) focuses on various Amaris and accoutrements — think balsamic and smoked peppers— to infuse his rotating cocktails. But he also likes to leave a little mystery in the glass. “I wanted to use ingredients that were maybe unheard of or unapproachable,” he says, referencing the Escorial in the gin-infused Pinky Ring ($9) and the Cardamaro in the seasonal Applejack-flavored Dr. Feelgood ($9).
1329W. Chicago, (312) 8182073; Charlatanchicago.com