10BEST: Soups to slurp this season
With chillier weather on the way, it’s soon to be soup season, and Marjorie Druker couldn’t be happier. The co-author of the best-selling TheNew England
Soup Factory Cookbook (Thomas Nelson, $24.99) says travelers can find traditional bowls across the nation. “Soup is the ultimate comfort food. It feeds your body and your soul” says the owner of several Boston-area restaurants. “I can’t live a day without it.” She shares some favorites with Larry Bleiberg for USA TODAY. LAKEFRONT IPA BEER CHEESE SOUP MILWAUKEE BRAT HOUSE MILWAUKEE Druker calls this the perfect dish for a beer-loving town like Milwaukee. It mixes crisp bits of bacon, sharp cheddar cheese, roasted red pepper and a dash of beer. “It’s all those things that go together really well. You almost can’t go wrong when you put them in a soup. It’s great for winter time when you need a little bit of extra comfort and warmth.” 414273-8709; milwaukeebrathouse.com GREEN CHILE STEW MARTIN’S CAPITOL CAFÉ
ROSWELL, N.M. While not overly hot, green chiles have a distinct peppery flavor, reminiscent of pimentos, Druker says. This friendly, homey cafe uses local ingredients and serves a creamy version of the signature New Mexico dish, delivering just the right kick. 575-624-2111; martinscapitolcafe.com BLACK BEAN SOUP SOUTH SEAS ISLAND RESORT
CAPTIVA ISLAND, FLA. Druker was interning at this resort hotel when she fell in love with the Cuban black bean soup — along with the fellow intern who would become her husband. The dish, often on the resort’s menu, should start with dry beans that are cooked with ham hocks, and then served over white rice,. The result is a thick and hearty soup with a touch of smokiness. “To this day, it’s one of my favorites.”
239-472-5111; southseas.com MATZO BALL SOUP STAGE DELI
BLOOMFIELD, MICH. Druker says the Detroit area has the country’s best delis. Exhibit One for Druker is the matzo ball soup. “It’s the epitome of great Jewish foods. I love big, fatmatzo balls, and I love a really intense rich broth,” she says. “If you didn’t have a Jewish mother and you have a great bowl of matzo ball soup, you feel like you had one.” 248-855-6622; thestagedeli.com GUMBO HERBSAINT
NEW ORLEANS You can taste the French, Spanish and African influences in this hearty soup, combining a jazzy mix of vegetables, seafood and spices. “It all starts with roux, the mixture of flour and fat. That’s the mother of gumbo, what gives it its true treasure and taste,” Druker says. Herbsaint serves a gumbo of the day, which often includes shrimp and crab. “It’s a lot of culture in one bowl.”
504-524-4114; herbsaint.com LOBSTER STEW BOB’S CLAM HUT
KITTERY, MAINE Stews don’t have to have potatoes, beef and carrots, Druker says. This lobster dish, treasured in New England, is a rich, hearty meal in a bowl. “It’s the essence of lobster, with butter, cream and stock. It’s the national dish of Maine.” A warning: Bob’s often has lines, but Druker says it’s worth the wait. 207-439-4233;
bobsclamhut.com
BURGOO OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE
LOUISVILLE
Druker says the best versions of this spicy dish similar to Brunswick stew start with a stock made with meaty bones. “All that collagen leaks from the bone into the broth. It has a load of nutrients in it,” she says. Popular from Appalachia through the Midwest, the version served at the Hickory Pit is thick with vegetables and pulled meat, and is served with cornbread. Druker says, “It’s intense and jam-packed with hearty, meaty flavor.” 502-968-0585 TORTILLA SOUP ROMESCO MEXITERRANEAN BISTRO
SAN DIEGO The best tortilla soups taste like liquefied nachos, Druker says. “You don’t have to chew it or crunch it. It slides down on a spoon. It’s just a bowl of goodness.” She likes this Southern California version with tomato, chicken broth, tortilla strips, avocado, fresh cream, cheese, fried pasilla chiles and cilantro. 619-475
8627; romescomexmed.com MARYLAND CRAB SOUP CAPTAIN JAMES LANDING
BALTIMORE Succulent, sweet crab meat is accessible to most palates, Druker says. “I love crab anywhere you can put it. It goes hand in hand in making a beautiful seafood soup.” The tomato-based version served at this ship-shaped waterfront restaurant has attracted diners for decades. 410-327-8600; captainjameslanding.com
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