10BEST: Twists on mac and cheese
Not to shatter childhood memories, but the best mac and cheese doesn’t come out of a blue box, at least according to Raf Miastkowski, a judge for Chicago’s Mac & Cheese Fest, macandcheesechicago.com, which is held Oct. 24. He says the dish, which originat
THE OLD FASHIONED MADISON, WIS.
It’s no surprise a curd-loving state like Wisconsin would know its way around a good mac and cheese. This downtown spot starts with locally made sharp cheddar and parmesan-style Sar Vecchio, and the dish is topped with crispy breadcrumbs. “This is a no-brainer. It’s like cheese central,” says Miastkowski, who suggests rounding out the meal with a side order of ring bologna. 608-3104545; theoldfashioned.com
GOOD DOG BAR PHILADELPHIA
This canine-themed eatery serves a rich baked deep-dish entrée using a blend of three cheeses topped off with a layer of corn flakes. “It adds a nice sweet crunch to the dish,” Miastkowski says. It is served with a side of blueberry cornbread — “a nice touch.” 215-985-9600; gooddogbar.com
GOLDEN BEETLE SEATTLE
Just because mac and cheese is familiar, it doesn’t mean it can’t be sophisticated. This version, produced by a James Beard Award-winning chef, uses seasonal, organic, locally sourced ingredients, including kale, gluten-free penne and lamb sausage. On Mondays, the restaurant offers what it calls the “ultimate mac n cheese experience,” allowing diners to design their own dish, choosing pasta, sauce, vegetable and meat. 206706-2977; golden-beetle.com/
QUEENS COMFORT NEW YORK
There’s a wacky, mad-scientist edge to the menu at this outer borough spot, which offers several takes on mac and cheese. There’s a deep-fried item called Atomic Fire Balls made with Sriracha sauce and served with a side of ranch dressing, and a version with smoked BBQ pulled pork and shoestring onions. “They like to take comfort foods from our childhood and make wacky dishes from them,” Miastkowski says. 718-7282350; queenscomfort.com
UNION BAR & KITCHEN CLARKSTON, MICH.
If themac and cheese seems heavenly at this eatery, there’s a good reason: The restaurant occupies a former church. “It’s a homey place with picnic tables,” Miastkowski says. The dish, made with Vermont sharp cheddar and Pinconning, a mild Colby-style cheese from Michigan, is layered with penne pasta and a crunchy crust. 248-620-6100; clarkston union.com
HILLSIDE FARMACY AUSTIN
This Lone Star take on the dish is richer than a Texas oilman. It comes coated in Mornay, a béchamel sauce thickened with cheeses. And to really gild the lily, you can add poached egg and pancetta, an Italian-cured bacon. “It’s totally worth it,” Miastkowski says. 512-6280168; hillsidefarmacy.com
COWBELL NEW ORLEANS
If a good mac and cheese starts with great ingredients, this Crescent City spot has it nailed. It starts with shallots, thyme and roasted poblano peppers and uses spiral macaroni topped with a mix of cream, gruyere, aged white cheddar and parmesan. “The chef really knows what he’s doing,” Miastkowski says. 504866-4222; cowbell-nola.com
AMK KITCHEN BAR CHICAGO
While his hometown has no shortage of mac masters, Miastkowski likes this up and comer in Chicago’s Bucktown neighborhood. Its version is made with a tantalizing combo of asiago, provolone, Gouda, fontina and Havarti cheeses, with a jalapeño-bacon crust. “It’s an underrated spot now, but people need to check it out,” he says. 773-2764400; amkchicago.com
UNION PIG AND CHICKEN PITTSBURGH
Miastkowski calls the meaty mac a “flavor bomb” thanks to the addition of brisket, crumbled blue cheese and a touch of wasabi oil. “This is a bolder mac and cheese. It’s meaty, spicy and bold.” It’s available in a vegetarian version and as a side dish. 412-363-7675; unionpgh.com
SWEETIE PIE’S ST. LOUIS
You can’t get more old-school than Velveeta, and for more than 40 years, this soul-food institution has used the love-it-or-hate-it processed product in a mac and cheese that tastes like childhood, Miastkowski says. “This is a take on the kind of dish you can make at home, just better.” Just as famous is the restaurant’s founder, Robbie Montgomery (“Miss Robbie”), who sang background for Ike and Tina Turner. 314-932-5364; sweetiepieskitchen.com