WINE REVIEW:
Established winemaker does it again with Pinot Noir,
Caymus Vineyards in Rutherford, California, has a long legacy of producing finely crafted Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley. In 1971, Charlie Wagner along with his wife, Loma Belle Glos Wagner, and young son, Chuck, purchased 26 acres of vineyards in Napa Valley and founded Caymus Vineyards. They released their first estate Cabernet Sauvignon the following year. As the family’s assets expanded, the Wagners established a Chardonnay program and revived their Pinot Noir initiative in 2001. Chuck’s oldest son directed winemaking for Mer Soleil Chardonnay, while his other son, Joe, managed Belle Glos Pinot Noir, named after their grandmother. These wines were grouped under the umbrella of the Wagner Family of Wines.
Joe Wagner, now a fifth-generation winemaker, farms four distinct vineyards under the Belle Glos label: Los Alturos, Clark & Telephone, Taylor Lane and Dairyman. While most attest to the quality of these classic coastal Pinot Noirs, they don’t fit within the budget for some consumers. The California-sourced Meomi Pinot Noir was introduced in 2006 as a food-friendly and value-conscious alternative with many of the same attributes of the single vineyard wines.
The popularity and growth of this brand has increased drastically, with this year’s sales expected to be 700,000 cases. This success caught the attention of Constellation Brands, which purchased Meomi for $315 million.
Joe Wagner’s latest project was establishing Napa-based Copper Cane Wines & Provisions in 2014, which will produce new wine brands including Elouan Pinot Noir along with some luxury merchandise. Elouan was introduced in 2012 and is crafted with the same philosophy Joe used in sourcing fruit for Meomi.
Fruit from three of Oregon’s cool coastal climates — the Willamette, Umpqua and Rogue valleys — are used in the Elouan bottling. These sites allow the wine to achieve maturity and ripeness while maintaining its freshness.
The 2013 Elouan Pinot Noir has a medium ruby shadow with plenty of wild strawberry and red licorice notes. It is pleasantly straightforward with juicy pomegranate fruit and delicate red cola overtones. It’s not overly complex, but more of a crowd pleaser than an intellectual exercise.
Plush red plum, cinnamon spices and cherry pie flavors layer the middle, with some hints of delicate earth. This polished wine has early accessibility with plenty of upfront fruit and enough character to keep your interest through the evening.
It appears Joe might have the same success with Elouan as he did with Meomi. Well then, what will be next in his Pinot arsenal?
Suggested retail: $22.99