WINE REVIEW: A California winery makes its mark with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay.
The expansive number of Pinot Noirs available on store shelves is an indication of our enduring love affair with this often refined, fruit- forward and finesse- driven grape.
While Pinot Noir’s native home and identity is the Cote d’Or region of Burgundy, France, there are plantings in most- wine growing regions of the world, most notably in Australia, New Zealand, Northern Italy, Oregon and California. The cool climatic influence and Pacific fog of California’s North Coast offers the ideal breeding ground and microclimate for this varietal. An array of diverse styles from California stretches from the northern latitudes of Anderson Valley through Sonoma Coast and Carneros into the Santa Lucia Highlands and down past the southern fringes of Santa Barbara County.
Along the Russian River in Sonoma County is the winegrowing appellation of Russian River Valley. In close proximity to the Pacific Ocean, cool- climate grapes thrive in the morning fog and moderating temperatures. While this area boasts of growing Syrah, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, Zinfandel and other varietals, it has become renowned for the unique expression of its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Pinot Noirs from Russian River Valley are easily recognizable for their fragrant, spicy aromatics, supple mouth- feel and captivating profile. Chardonnays showcase vibrant citrus fruits with a backbone of delicate acidity.
Among 110 wineries and 15,000 acres of vineyards in Russian River Valley, Balletto Vineyards stands out as one of the hidden gems. At the age of 17, John Balletto took control of his family’s vegetable farm after the passing of his father in 1977. Balletto grew this business into one of the largest vegetable farms in Northern California, with more than 2 million cases of mixed vegetables.
Given the scarcity of water for farm crops and upon the recommendation of farmerWarren Dutton of Dutton Ranch, he transitioned to grape growing in 1995. Balletto focused on producing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from all estate fruit using only the top 10 percent of fruit from his vineyards. The remaining grapes are sold to other Sonoma wineries.
Considering the modest acreage of producers in Russian River Valley, Balletto overshadows most with 675 acres of vineyards. Despite the commanding size, he maintains a consistent level of quality. While wellcrafted and complex Pinot Noir may be hard to find at an affordable price in this recognized appellation, Balletto leads the way in all categories.
Winemaker Anthony Beckman crafts eights single- vineyard Pinot Noirs from multiple clones in 12 vineyards that lie along the cool coastal boundaries of Sonoma Coast.
The 2013 Balletto Russian River Pinot Noir is 100 percent estate grown and sourced from seven different vineyard sites on the property. This wine takes on a medium garnet color with delicately perfumed red fruits. It blossoms after 30 minutes in the glass, revealing savory notes of wild strawberry, cinnamon and fruitcake spices. Sourced from seven different Pinot Noir vineyards on the estate. This is a youthful Pinot with an elegant structure and enough acidity to grow over time. $ 24.99
The 2013 Balletto Russian River Chardonnay is pale yellow with floral notes of citron and honeydew. It’s a pleasantly forward Chardonnay layered with white nectarines, ginger and Asian Pears. You will never tire of this wellcomposed Chardonnay. $ 27.99
Balletto also offers an unoaked rendition with its 2014 Teresa’s Unoaked Chardonnay. It flows nicely with crisp green apples and lemon oil. $ 24.99
The 2014 Balletto Russian River Pinot Gris offers a nice change of pace during this extended summer weather. It is fresh and lively on the palate with delicate white flowers and ripe orchard fruits. $ 20.99
W. Peter Hoyne has been a wine journalist for over 20 years, covering stories of national and international significance. While his professional relationships in the wine industry have allowed him to share a unique perspective of wine, he is also intrigued by the culinary aspect and harmony that exists between wine and food. As a wine advocate, he is committed to consumer education and is focused on upcoming trends and American wine- buying habits.