WINE REVIEW: Merlot enjoying an American resurgence,
Signs are showing a modern revival and resurgence toward Merlot is under way. Late last year Wines and Vines reported Merlot sales above $ 20 jumped 6 percent. During the same period, wine business. com surveyed 1,000 American wine consumers who named Merlot as their favorite red. In addition, a survey of 4,000 consumers by Wine Intelligence ranked Merlot as their most chosen red wine.
This is certainly a departure from the anti- Merlot sentiment that followed the 2004 film “Sideways,” where Merlot was disparaged and the virtues of Pinot Noir exalted. At this point, it seems obvious that the resentment toward Merlot has faded; in fact, there may be signs of an evolving love affair with this grape.
Merlot is one of the most widely grown grapes in the world, and France is home to nearly two- thirds of the plantings worldwide. Its evolution and place in history dates back to the 1700s and early plantings in Bordeaux.
On Bordeaux’s Right Bank, the Merlot- dominant wines of Saint-Emilion and Pomerol are revered, yet they are not labeled as Merlot. In California, Merlot’s social status has been less certain and it is more widely perceived as a blending grape.
Merlot’s ability to ripen early with soft tannins and less acidity makes it ideally suited for rounding out the aggressive temperament of Cabernet Sauvignon. Often described as supple, fruity and consumer friendly, Merlot can be much more when well managed in the vineyards and cultivated in the right soils with low yields.
Napa Valley accounts for the second largest acreage of Merlot in California, and it is apparent that much of the critical acclaim for this grape comes from those properties willing to invest in the meticulous care of their vineyards.
Washington winemakers made early inroads in the cultivation of Merlot, and these wines have maintained their own distinctive style.
While Merlot can mimic the personality of Cabernet Sauvignon, a prototypical Merlot offers an underlying suppleness and charm. It embodies a wealth of unctuous black fruits with a fine concentration in the middle and a soft sensuous texture that can leave you spellbound. It is time that our consumption of quality Merlot begins anew as this grape moves out of the shadows and achieves the recognition it rightfully deserves.
2013 Duckhorn Napa Valley Merlot: Dan Duckhorn was one of the early pioneers who focused on premium Napa Valley Merlot, bringing it global recognition and international prominence. The 2012 Napa Merlot is full bodied and refined with ample amounts of dark cherries intermixed with cinnamon, dusty tannins and white pepper. Especially noteworthy is Duckhorn’s flagship Three Palms Vineyard designation, which is highly regarded for its structural quality.
2013 Pahlmeyer Merlot: Former federal prosecutor Jason Pahlmeyer invested heavily in the development of his vineyards and wines before placing them in the capable hands of his daughter Cleo. The wellconstructed 2013 Merlot offers a mouthful of ripe blackberries, sweet dark mocha and baking spices behind a dense silky backbone. Unusually complex and age- worthy, this is definitely a worthwhile splurge.
2013 Long Shadows Pedestal Merlot: This Merlot is part of the Long Shadows project, where celebrated winemakers are teamed up with prestige vineyards in Washington. Using fruit sourced from Columbia Valley and under the guidance of renowned consultant Michel Rolland, this sophisticated Merlot reveals plum marmalade, pencil shavings and a voluptuous silky finish. Kudos to Rolland for this effort.
W. Peter Hoyne has been a wine journalist for over 20 years, covering stories of national and international significance. While his professional relationships in the wine industry have allowed him to share a unique perspective of wine, he is also intrigued by the culinary aspect and harmony that exists between wine and food. As a wine advocate, he is committed to consumer education and is focused on upcoming trends and American wine- buying habits.