Chicago Sun-Times

In-your-face approach a winning model for Napa winemaker,

Bold style, approach propel Napa Valley winemaker to success in crowded industry

- BY W. PETER HOYNE

Orin Swift Wine Cellars and winemaker Dave Phinney have continued to amass a captive audience with their catchy labels and thrilling bottlings. Having achieved notable financial success, the question remains as to the future crusade for Phinney.

Phinney grew up in Los Angeles, and both his parents were college professors. Initially, Phinney was drawn to political science and law while attending the University of Arizona. After studying abroad in Florence, Italy, he returned with renewed energy and passion for wine.

With the assistance of a professor in the agricultur­e department at the University of Arizona, Phinney planted an experiment­al acre of Zinfandel and Petite Sirah in Tucson, Arizona. After a brief stint at a retail wine shop, he decided to move to Napa Valley, California, and worked harvest at Robert Mondavi Winery in 1997. Later he transition­ed to Whitehall Lane Winery, where he would learn his winemaking skills.

Choosing to start his own business, Phinney purchased two tons of Zinfandel grapes and created the Orin Swift Wine Cellars brand in 1998. The company was named for his father’s middle name, Orin, and mother’s maiden name, Swift.

Phinney’s early success was attributed to the creation of a modernisti­c Zinfandel blend called “Prisoner.” The wine achieved near cult status, growing from 385 cases to 85,000 cases in 10 years. In 2008, the brand was sold to Huneeus Vintners, owners of Napa’s Quintessa Winery. Later in 2016, the Prisoner Wine Co., along with its composite brands. was sold again, this time to Constellat­ion Brands for $285 million.

Phinney continued buying and blending grapes around the globe, designing creative wines with offbeat, unconventi­onal labels from Spain, France, Italy, Portugal, Corsica and Argentina. In California, Phinney treasures his own vineyards in Alexander Valley and Napa’s Atlas Peak AVA. Included in this diverse lineup is a trio of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons called Mercury Head, Papillion and Palermo.

Phinney seems to tower over the competitio­n in the red blend category priced below $50. His accomplish­ments were noticed by E & J Gallo, which acquired Orin Swift Cellars in 2016 for an undisclose­d sum of money. Of course, Phinney stayed on board and continues his tradition.

At 45 years old, Phinney seems particular­ly adept at understand­ing the palate of the American consumer and has many projects looming on the horizon. He popularize­d and brought early fame to hedonistic-styled red blends. His attention to detail, artistic labeling and in-your-face approach to winemaking always make a lasting impression.

2017 Abstract: An ultimate personific­ation of the Phinney style is the Abstract red blend. This Grenache, Petite Sirah and Syrah blend is from vineyards throughout California. It is opaque with delicate fudge aromas. The midpalate is juicy and seductive with blueberry jam, baking spices and dark roast coffee. The sweet macerated berries are sultry and inviting with an underlying freshness.

8 Years in the Desert: Phinney tried his hand at making Zinfandel in 2009, yet it was never bottled. In 2017 he re-emerged, proudly releasing a Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Syrah blend. Eight years have passed since Phinney attempted crafting Zinfandel. Jazzy and youthful, this wine reveals purple violet aromas integrated with cocoa powder and a burst of dusty spice.

2016 Machete: The label depicts a scantily clad woman wielding a machete beside her white Cadillac. This wine has a truly sensory design supported by a wild red raspberry elixir alongside a framework of sagebrush and herbs. There is plenty in this bottling, but be patient and decant it early before consuming.

2016 Papillon: This opaque beauty has a lush personalit­y and is wrapped in savory black plums. The exaggerate­d textures show its pedigree. It is a succulent fruit compote supported by some bitterswee­t chocolate and a silky richness that lingers on the palate.

2016 Palermo: This well-endowed Bordeaux-styled blend has a purple rim and an intense concentrat­ion of black fruits. In between the black strawberri­es and blueberry preserves are subtle, ripe tannins. There is an overall sense of balance of crushed rocks and minerals within the core.

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