Chicago Sun-Times

Bar Biscay revels in the Basque region’s cuisine and pretension-free groove

- BY JI SUK YI, FEATURE REPORTER jsyi@suntimes.com | @oh_em_ji_CST

Bar Biscay in West Town’s Eckhart Park neighborho­od is the embodiment of the Basque region of Spain, where fine dining complement­s laid-back soirees.

“A Spanish party is an inclusive party, everyone’s allowed in,” co-owner Scott Worsham said. “People off the street are dragged in, whereas other cultures have a velvet-rope type [approach].”

Inspired by the Bay of Biscay that abuts Northern Spain and Western France, the year-old restaurant, at 1450 W. Chicago, dazzles and welcomes guests with its tropical sea blue facade and continues to lure with its libations and scrumptiou­s menu.

“A lot of our beverage menu and food menu pair and taste well together,” manager Neal Neumann said. “You can throw a dart at the drink list and it will taste good with [whatever you order].”

The “Pintxos Happy Hour,” from 3 to 6 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays, features five snacks for $8. Pintxos are finger foods, often served skewered with a toothpick at bars in the Basque region.

Bar Biscay also features the “Triple 6” special selections of a $6 wine, cocktail or shot and half-off wine night on Tuesdays. And on any given day, it’s not uncommon for the porrón — a communal wine pitcher — to be passed around to get the party started.

Chef Johnny Anderes allows fresh, quality ingredient­s to shine without much manipulati­on. During the winter months, he leans more French with heavier creams and sauces. In the summer, he lets the spicier and brighter flavors of Spain take center stage.

A seafood lover can’t lose — menu selections range from monkfish with sunchokes, olives and yuzu vinaigrett­e to razor clams or cockles on toast. For the carnivore, there’s whole oxtail, Cornish game hen and classic steak au poivre. The charcuteri­e board is among the best in the city and showcases a chef ’s selection from sea and land.

On Wednesday nights, you can partake of “The Tour of Biscay” tasting menu — four full courses of house favorites that feeds two for $60.

For the ultimate culinary adventurer, try the Chef ’s Counter tasting menu, up to seven courses at $75 per person.

Worsham, his wife, Sari Zernich Worsham, and Joe Campagna, another co-owner, hope to debunk the idea that good food is only for special occasions.

“I’m less interested in perfection than I ever was in my career,” said Worsham. “I’m more interested in the vibe of the room and making sure that everyone’s having a good time.”

Helping seal the laid-back, friendly theme is the atmosphere, art installati­on meets chill beach club. The minimalist space is slightly psychedeli­c, especially at night, when the glow of LED and floating tube lights tints the room in shades of pink and dark blue.

“It’s like a spaceship of really great food, personalit­ies and wine and cocktails,” Anderes said.

 ?? BRIAN RICH/SUN-TIMES ?? ABOVE: Cocktails are served at Bar Biscay. BELOW: The sausage-stuffed Piquillos in a Manchego Mornay sauce.
BRIAN RICH/SUN-TIMES ABOVE: Cocktails are served at Bar Biscay. BELOW: The sausage-stuffed Piquillos in a Manchego Mornay sauce.
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