WINE REVIEW: Sparkling wines shine at annual Italian wine showcase,
Worshipers of Italian wines and almost anyone who enjoys delving into Italian wines had a field day at Gambero Rosso’s Tre Bicchieri, which made its tour through Chicago late last month.
As one of the pre-eminent tastings of Italian wines, those in attendance were able to taste prized reds, whites, rosés and sparklers for this yearly adventure.
Since 1988, Gambero Rosso, an Italian food and wine magazine, has published a comprehensive review of award-winning Italian wines in its yearly guidebook “Vin d’Italia.” This annual process spans five and a half months, with 45,000 wines being evaluated by a panel of 70 judges in a series of blind tastings in Italy.
Wines are first tasted at a regional level before the finalists are submitted to the commission for review in Rome. The 2019 guide reviewed a total of 22,100 wines from 2,530 producers, with the highest-ranked wines receiving the coveted Tre Bicchieri, or “three glasses.”
Less than 1 percent of the wines reviewed received the exceptional three-glass recognition. This has become the universal benchmark on how Italian wines are judged around the world.
The majority of this year’s elite 447 Tre Bicchieri wines were from Tuscany, with 84 wines selected, followed by the northern region of Piedmont with 75 and Veneto with 40, alongside other regions of Italy. This year’s focus emphasized the depth and elegance of sparkling wines of Prosecco, Franciacorta, Moscato and Lambrusco, which can be discovered throughout Italy.
Gambero Rosso senior editor Marco Sabellico believes an increasing number of well-crafted wines from southern Italy are making their way into the ranks. Americans’ thirst for Italian wines is the most robust in the world, surpassing consumption in Italy and France.
Celebrating more than three decades of success, this year’s Gambero Rosso global tour covered 20 cities internationally, including Beijing, Moscow and eight major U.S. cities. This year’s venue brought 106 producers into the Chicago market. Among the notable Tre Bicchieri wines tasted at the event, many are just beginning to work their way into the Chicago market.
Here is a list of some of the standouts.
2013 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico: Masi continues its longstanding tradition of crafting superb Amarone. Silky orchard cherries and red licorice are interwoven with sweet baking spices and a touch of cream. It is perfectly balanced, approachable and cellar worthy.
2017 Valdobbiadene Brut Campofalco Vigna Monfalcon: This is a sophisticated Prosecco, pale yellow with aromas of fresh brioche and walnuts. The core of dark citrus fruit is rich and focused.
2015 Cantine San Marzano Primitivo di Manduria Sessantanni: This is a saturated opaque wine with an abundance of densely compacted black fruit within a rustic old-world framework. The oldvine personality of this wine is thick and smooth at every turn.
Cartizze Brut Vigna La Rivetta: This Prosecco heralds from the grand cru hillside of Cartizze, Italy. It is fruitdriven and pure, with lively Fuji apple aromas. It pushes forward with an exotic personality of white flowers and jasmine.
2013 Renano Riesling Collezione di Famiglia: This well-defined dry Riesling from Veneto exhibits an edginess of slate and flint integrated into a delicate fabric.
2015 Colle Massari Grattamacco Bolgheri Superiore: This red has a dominant blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese grapes sourced from coastal vineyards in the town of Maremma. It opens to a medium ruby shadow of dried flowers, red currants and leather.
2015 Famiglia Cecchi Chianti Classico Riserva: A well-constructed dark red fruit-infused Chianti Classico Riserva, this wine has muted shades of leather, rose petals and dusty earth integrated into a background of soft, sweet tannins.