Chicago Sun-Times

Cacao Cafe offers Mexican comfort food

- JI SUK YI jsyi@suntimes.com | @oh_em_ji_CST

In the corner of an unassuming Orland Park strip mall, Mexican comfort food reigns inside the intimate and welcoming Cacao Cafe.

Pleasant aromas waft off the counter display of baked goods, including conchas — Mexican sweet bread pastry — sweet and savory empanadas and the cafe’s bestsellin­g signature shortbread thumbprint

cookies with apricot or strawberry.

Open since November, Cacao Cafe is chef and owner Linda Aceves’ dream come true.

Initially, baking and cooking had been a hobby for Aceves, who planned to pursue medicine. But it soon became a career choice and she enrolled at Le Cordon Bleu culinary school in 2014.

“I’m first-generation so there’s a lot that goes along with that. … I was first to go to college,” said Aceves, who lives in Tinley Park.

“When [my parents] found out I no longer wanted to go the medical route, which [they saw] was a safe and secure path, they weren’t disappoint­ed but were scared. But at the end of the day they support me. They’re my No. 1 fans.”

Other family members are also big supporters. Aceves works with her husband, Pedro Zaveta, in the kitchen. Her brother and cousins also work at Cacao Cafe.

Family recipes are a source of inspiratio­n exemplifie­d in the homemade salsas (tomatoes, peppers and onions are roasted inhouse), chilaquile­s, tacos, burritos and tortas.

“I didn’t grow up in Mexico, and I only know what my parents and my grandparen­ts brought over,” she said. “That’s the whole inspiratio­n of this cafe. I like to say it’s comfort Mexican food based off a first-generation-er.

“I think, nowadays, there’s a lot of people in my boat. They’re not from there, but then you’re not from here, you’re kind of stuck in this limbo and trying to figure it all out.”

The creamy chicken tortilla soup is a house favorite, and one of the more popular flavors of chilaquile­s is the salsa roja. Sopas are open-faced sandwiches topped with the customers’ choice of meat and beans, lettuce, queso fresco, sour cream and pico de gallo. Tacos are served American or Mexican style and omelette portions are generous.

“We are a scratch kitchen . ... There are no shortcuts to any of our recipes. Some of these recipes take 24 hours to marinate,” Aceves said.

Chorizo is also made in-house flavored with chilis, cumin, garlic, citrus juice and zest. Beans are prepared daily, and seasonal ingredient­s are tapped for crepe specials like local strawberri­es and a peach dulce de leche.

Daily specials have included shrimp ceviche, salmon salad, tamales and tres leches cake. The cafe also takes custom cake and cupcake orders. Aceves prides herself in not having a cake template book awaiting customers but rather working with each client and coming up with a customized original design for each.

The full coffee bar features standard espresso drinks, a decadent hot chocolate and cafe de olla — a spiced, cinnamon traditiona­l Mexican coffee.

“I can’t see myself doing anything else,” said Aceves, who loves the creative freedom in adapting recipes and going into the zone when decorating cakes.

“Just the patience that I have — I learned that is my hidden talent. … All that work and design that goes into it is my passion. At the end of the day I don’t think my talents can [fit] into a little box.”

Cacao Cafe is located at 9111 W. 151st St. in Orland Park. For informatio­n call (708) 5906554 or visit cacaocafeo­rlandpark.com.

Ji Suk Yi’s “The Grid: Neighborho­od Eats” series is made possible by support from Baird & Warner real estate. Tour the neighborho­ods with Ji at suntimes.com/the-grid.

 ?? BRIAN RICH/SUN-TIMES ?? Chicken tortilla soup served at Cacao Cafe.
BRIAN RICH/SUN-TIMES Chicken tortilla soup served at Cacao Cafe.
 ?? BRIAN RICH/SUN-TIMES ?? Linda Aceves, chef/owner of Cacao Cafe, works with her husband, Pedro Zaveta.
BRIAN RICH/SUN-TIMES Linda Aceves, chef/owner of Cacao Cafe, works with her husband, Pedro Zaveta.
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