Chicago Sun-Times

Moody Tongue Brewing serves barbecue options, beer pairings

- BY ASHOK SELVAM Eater Chicago

Moody Tongue Brewing was focused on becoming Chicago’s second Michelin-starred brewpub when it opened in November 2019 near McCormick Place. The restaurant featured a tasting menu from a popular chef who presided over Longman & Eagle when the Logan Square restaurant held a one-star status in the tire guide. But then the pandemic struck, and like many restauratn­s, Moody Tongue was forced to reinvent itself. In this case, by offering a bar menu for carryout and creating a narrow sidewalk patio in front of the pub.

“We’re fighting,” owner Jared Rouben says.

Those high aspiration­s remain intact, as the dining room remains open for indoor dining. The brewpub continues to evolve due to the pandemic. In addition to the dining room, a new patio, featuring 10 four-tops has been added. “It’s been nice to have a patio, we’ve never done that before,” Rouben says.

Rouben says the “premium barbecue” uses meats from the same superb farms — Slagel Family and Catalpa Grove — which supply beef and pork for their upscale tasting menu. Barbecue is a solid takeout option as smoked meats notoriousl­y travel well.

“You might not be able to have an 11-course tasting menu at home, but you can buy barbecue from the same chef, same crew, same farmers,” Rouben says.

Rouben also pointed out that the menu includes suggested beer pairings. Lagers always go well with barbecue. Moody Tongue’s Apertif Pilsner pairs well with pulled pork and brisket. (Beer is also available for delivery.) Rouben says as the seasons change and Moody Tongue releases new beers, he’ll revise pairings with new selections.

Moody Tongue chef Jared Wentworth is a New England native, which explains why a lobster roll appears on the menu. There’s no strong legacy of barbecue in Massachuse­tts, so Wentworth isn’t obliged to represent a specific region of barbecue. He uses applewood to smoke the meats which come with tomato-based Kansas City or mustardbas­ed Carolina Gold. The ribs are pork baby back.

Chicago has already seen an explosion of new pizzerias open in the recent weeks, and takeout-friendly options are a safe bet as COVID-19 cases surge. The unpredicta­bility of the disease has stressed out restaurant owners who don’t know when they’ll be able to safely reopen to their dining rooms to full capacities. In Chicago, the pressure is mounting as fall and winter’s dipping temperatur­es make outdoor dining unviable.

Barbecue is a comfort food with rich proteins that go over well during the fall and winter. But beyond the colder months, Rouben says barbecue is a permanent addition. The smoked menus will complement Moody Tongue’s bar menu. If customers call Moody Tongue and order directly from the brewpub, they’ll be able to order from both menus, Rouben says.

And to complement those proteins, Rouben says don’t forget the “incredible” side dishes. “Mac and cheese, baked beans, cole slaw or even the potato salad. They’re all very delicious,” he says.

Carryout and delivery via DoorDash or by calling (312) 600-5111. Dine-in: 2515 S. Wabash.

Contributi­ng: Miriam Di Nunzio, Chicago Sun-Times

Originally published on chicago.eater.com.

 ?? JORDAN BALDERAS ?? The barbecue spread is paired with Apertif Pilsner (top left), and a half chicken is paired with Steeped Emperor’s Lemon Saison at Moody Tongue Brewing Company.
JORDAN BALDERAS The barbecue spread is paired with Apertif Pilsner (top left), and a half chicken is paired with Steeped Emperor’s Lemon Saison at Moody Tongue Brewing Company.
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 ?? JORDAN BALDERAS ?? Gooey Butter Cake is among the dessert options at Moody Tongue Brewing Company.
JORDAN BALDERAS Gooey Butter Cake is among the dessert options at Moody Tongue Brewing Company.
 ?? JORDAN BALDERAS ?? Pork ribs half rack at Moody Tongue Brewing Company.
JORDAN BALDERAS Pork ribs half rack at Moody Tongue Brewing Company.

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