Chicago Tribune (Sunday)

Battle of the ‘Game of Thrones’ Scotch whiskies

- By Jim Brucker Jim Brucker is a freelance writer. Leah Eskin leaheskin.com

Winter whisky is coming — Diageo in late November will release a series of eight new singlemalt Scotch whiskies to celebrate the epic final season of HBO’s landmark fantasy series “Game of Thrones.”

Representi­ng seven Houses of Westeros, along with those stoic wallhugger­s, the Night’s Watch, this fan-focused collection serves as an entry point to popular and atypical single malts.

“Scotland, much like the Seven Kingdoms, has a diverse and varied landscape,” says Dan Sanborn, senior vice president of culture and partnershi­ps at Diageo. “Each distillery has its own unique character and produces a distinctiv­e whisky representa­tive of the local Scottish terroir.”

We set out on a quest to taste all eight, but which one will be worthy of being sipped on the Iron Throne?

The Royal Lochnagar 12 Year Old represents House Baratheon. At 40 percent alcohol, $65 is a bit rich for this toffee, plum and currant elixir, distracted by Stannis-like dreams of royalty.

At House Tully, the $30, 40 percent alcohol Singleton of Glendullan Select

is sherry-influenced and all-nose, with muted flavor components as trapped as Edmure Tully, prisoner of the Freys.

Daenerys Targaryen might appreciate the 40 percent alcohol, $40 Cardhu Gold Reserve.

Permeated by a cornucopia of apples, from green to red to the crabapple finish, this Valyrian is spicy enough to smelt a golden crown.

Across the map at House Stark, Dalwhinnie Winter’s Frost, at $40 and 43 percent alcohol, delivers malty orange notes through its remarkable grapefruit finish, with a hopeful, needle-sharp brightness as tenacious as young Arya Stark.

The 43 percent alcohol, $63 Oban Bay Reserve

takes the black with the Night’s Watch. Less maltforwar­d than standard Oban, its impressive body resolves into a medium, marmalade-caramel finish that, like the King in the North, is somewhat blunt.

Fierce, seafaring Yara Greyjoy would be proud of this collection’s best value, the 45.8 percent alcohol, $45 Talisker Select Reserve. Its fresh peat nose and palate, with a lemony roasted-fruit kabob finish, produces an affordable introducti­on to Talisker and a fine offering to the Drowned God.

Diageo’s “hold the door” surprise is the $60 Clynelish Reserve. Its unsullied 51.2 percent alcohol enables an infinite nose of graham crackers, malt and golden biscuit, and a few drops of water open elements of light treacle and lime through the finish. As confident as the Queen of Thorns herself, this honors House Tyrell with dry complexity.

Moving mountains, House Lannister takes the throne of this collection with the $65, 46 percent alcohol Lagavulin 9 Year Old. This Islay mainstay pays its debts with a peat nose that is sweeter and subtler than its kissing cousin, Lagavulin 8 Year Old, with late-finish wildflower­s and Cersei-approved sour threads. Along with the Clynelish Reserve, this is a must-buy.

True victory, though, is a matter of personal palate, making this smorgasbor­d worth exploring. As Sanborn says, “Only the threeeyed raven knows who will sit on the Iron Throne!” Home on the Range

Macaroons are simple to mix, quick to bake and gluten-free. They’re easy to wrap, to stack and drop at Temple Sinai Synagogue, in the Squirrel Hill neighborho­od of Pittsburgh, a few blocks from the Tree of Life. Hard to know how many will show up for the first Shabbat since the Oct. 27 shootings that left 11 dead. But bakers are guessing a lot. Sometimes, after services, boxed chocolate-chunk will do. This week, says one congregant, we need to bake with love in our hearts.

Rolling the moist, lumpy coconut mounds is soothing work. Don’t focus on what happened, says a contributo­r, just do something good. So they toast coconut and level sugar and whisk egg whites, saving the yolks to knead into loaves of challah for grieving families.

When the macaroons have been plated, along with their brethren — the chocolate-chip cookies, the brownies, the pumpkin squares, the squirrelsh­aped gingerbrea­ds, the renegade fudge stripes — they recline in a tableau of easy-reach abundance. It may be the single point of overlap between Pittsburgh’s hungry-steelworke­r food culture, which includes the wedding cookie table, and the city’s Jewish food traditions.

The sanctuary, accustomed to 125 on a Friday evening, overflows with 1 3 ounces bitterswee­t (70 percent) chocolate 1. Toast: 2. Whisk: 3. Shape: 4. Gild: 1,200 members and guests — many Muslim, Christian, Buddhist. Short on chairs, adults sway; children, in pained restraint, eye the macaroons.

After a service of song and prayer, the cookies prove equal to their job. Even in this moment of sorrow, each offers one bite of sweet.

 ?? DIAGEO ?? The Game of Thrones single malt Scotch whisky collection from Diageo features eight variants, seven themed for the major houses and the eighth for the Night’s Watch.
DIAGEO The Game of Thrones single malt Scotch whisky collection from Diageo features eight variants, seven themed for the major houses and the eighth for the Night’s Watch.
 ?? TERRENCE ANTONIO JAMES/CHICAGO TRIBUNE ??
TERRENCE ANTONIO JAMES/CHICAGO TRIBUNE
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