Chicago Tribune (Sunday)

Tropical flair to spare

Hawaiian flavors inspire Thanksgivi­ng sides

- JeanMarie Brownson

I’m always on the lookout for subtle ways to add freshness to our holiday meals. Nothing too crazy, just a creative twist that keeps everyone on their toes. (And the cook from getting complacent.)

Some of the creativity comes from a compelling memory or story behind the recipe — this

year our anniversar­y trip to Hawaii sparks my holiday cooking. Now, new versions of our standard sweet potatoes, green beans and salad will grace our Thanksgivi­ng buffet.

One bite of the stunning purple sweet potatoes at Hula Grill in Honolulu had me holiday planning. Known as purple yams or

Okinawan potatoes, these tubers sport an intensely colored, antioxidan­t-rich, purple interior. Their dense texture mashes beautifull­y. A little unsweetene­d coconut milk, salt, pepper and fresh chives turn the potatoes into a stunning holiday side.

Look for the purple yams in Japanese markets and online. Alternativ­ely, I use Beauregard or Red Garnet sweet potatoes. Not necessaril­y labeled as such, these are the most common varieties in supermarke­ts. Their sweet, nutty flavor and bright orange color make a light, nearly fluffy mash. No butter required.

We enjoyed Chinese long beans steamed and stir-fried at several restaurant­s in Oahu and Maui. Also known as yardlong beans, these skinny 14- to 18-inch long green beans grow well in Hawaii’s tropical climate. Back home, I find them fresh, usually tied up in tidy bundles, at produce markets with large Asian offerings.

The bundles facilitate quick work of trimming the ends from the beans — simply leave them tied together while you trim. Then, untie and drop into a kettle of boiling salted water to cook until bright green and tender. You can cook the beans a day in advance if you cool them down right after cooking. Just before serving, a quick reheat in a microwave will do.

When long beans are not available, I cook fresh green beans along with some yellow wax beans for a beautiful vegetable side. With the buttery, smoky macadamia topping as directed in the recipe, these beans will erase any bad memories of soggy casseroles.

Sesame tahini paste makes the most delicious, creamy salad dressing sans dairy. I add a neutral oil so the sesame flavor comes through and a bit of apple cider vinegar for tang; lemon juice is delicious here too. Use the dressing to top a pretty red, white and green salad sparkling with pomegranat­e seeds.

All of these side dishes can satisfy vegetarian, vegan and gluten-sensitive guests. They certainly satisfy the cook.

 ?? E. JASON WAMBSGANS/CHICAGO TRIBUNE PHOTOS; SHANNON KINSELLA/FOOD STYLING ?? Long beans with a buttery, smoky macadamia topping will erase any bad memories of soggy green bean casseroles.
E. JASON WAMBSGANS/CHICAGO TRIBUNE PHOTOS; SHANNON KINSELLA/FOOD STYLING Long beans with a buttery, smoky macadamia topping will erase any bad memories of soggy green bean casseroles.
 ??  ?? Sweet potatoes stand in for the usual suspects in this Thanksgivi­ng dinner mash flavored with coconut milk for a rich, tropical and nondairy texture enhancer.
Sweet potatoes stand in for the usual suspects in this Thanksgivi­ng dinner mash flavored with coconut milk for a rich, tropical and nondairy texture enhancer.
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