THE NATION’S NEWEST NATIONAL PARK
White-water rafting and adventure await at New River Gorge
By the time our bus arrived at the put-in spot for my first white-water rafting trip, I was convinced the guide was speaking only to me when he advised there was no shame in turning back.
After all, he had spent most of the ride outlining all the possible dangers to be found on this lower part of the wild New River, the centerpiece of the United States’ newest national park.
What I recall most clearly were “Don’t panic!” and “Don’t stand up!” Both were instructions for what to do if a torrent of water tossed you out of the raft and into the boulder-studded river.
But, with an uneasy stomach, I decided there was no turning back. I had always thrilled to videos of white-water rafting I had seen over the years. Now in my mid-60s, I knew if I didn’t go for it here, this would end up being an adventure that passed me by for good. And besides, I’d already put on the wet suit, splash jacket and life vest.
In addition to our guide, the inimitable Ray Ray, our raft carried five folks ranging in age from early 50s to mid-70s. Three, including the eldest, were expert rafters with experience on rivers around the world. All were more fit and I was the only newbie.
For the next few hours, we surfed more than a dozen rapids as we traveled through eight miles of river. The forested walls of the sandstone gorge seemed to hold the quiet between rapids. But when we dipped into the kinetic white water, our whoops and hollers were just part of the barely controlled chaos.
First, shrieks of excitement as the front of the raft rose up on the splashing and swirling waves. Then, screams when a wall of water hit the front paddlers, and laughter when we were once again in calm water. All the while, paddles were moving feverishly through the water, Ray Ray shouting instructions from the rear.
It was the most fun I’ve had in a long while, even though I had a hard time keeping myself in proper paddling position. It was a bit of a rough ride for me, but I’m so glad I didn’t back out. There’s nothing like it.
The New River Gorge National Park and Preserve is the country’s 63rd and newest national park. It covers more than 70,000 acres and includes 53 miles of the New River, its waters flowing north through the deep sandstone canyons in the Appalachian Mountains of southern West Virginia. One of the oldest rivers in the world, the New River has a calmer upper segment, while the lower area has rapids ranging from Class III-V.
People are drawn to the area for its fishing, rock climbing and white-water rafting, of course. (There’s also white-water rafting on the nearby Gauley River, a more vigorous course with several Class V+ rapids.)
The area has long been a popular outdoor recreation spot, but it’s been kind of under the radar to those who live elsewhere. All that is changing with the 2021 designation as a national park.
“The rangers have always known that New River Gorge was a special and unique place,” said National Park Service District Supervisor David Bieri. “We are happy for the opportunity to share that with more people now that it has been recognized as a national park and preserve.”
And that’s a good thing for travelers, as there is just so much natural beauty in this area of southern West Virginia, and so many activities to satisfy different appetites.
There’s extreme and mild adventure along with the white-water rafting, with options to satisfy thrill seekers as well as children on their first float trips. Hiking trails abound, some suitable for mega-milers and others ideal for the saunterers who want to take photos at the overlooks framing the beautiful scenery. In spring, thickets of Catawba rhododendrons bloom in purple and pink glory. There’s even a boardwalk past the Sandstone waterfall and into the woods, where wheelchair users can taste this natural wonderland.
There’s fishing and boating, zip lining and mountain biking. There are historical sites tied to the area’s coal and railroad history that fueled the industrialization of the United States. You can tour a coal mine, visit a railroad ghost town, or even survey a Civil War battlefield.
One of the most unusual activities is a walk across the New River Gorge Bridge. But you’re not on a walkway next to the car lanes. You’re on a 2-foot-wide catwalk just underneath the fourlane highway, 876 feet above the river. The 3,030-foot structure is the longest single-span bridge in the Western Hemisphere. Walkers are strapped in, so safety is pretty much assured, but still, this trek isn’t for the faint of heart.
Shoppers in your group won’t be disappointed either. The historic town of Lewisburg, with its fine dining spots, boutique stores and its very own Carnegie Hall, is a worthy day trip away.
Also nearby, in Beckley, is the fabulous Tamarack Marketplace, with artwork and fine crafts from local artisans. It’s well worth a visit.
My home base for this trip was the 250-acre Adventures on the Gorge resort that sits on the rim of the New River gorge, adjacent to the park. It’s an impressive place, with a long list of adventures, wild and not, for guests to try out during their time there.
The resort has a wide range of lodging options, making this the perfect place for multigenerational gatherings and for those desiring different comfort levels and prices. The less expensive options are the campsites (starting at $39 per night), RV spots ($59) and rustic cabins ($45) with multiple beds and a shared campground bathroom. There are glamping tents ($159), sportsmans cabins (with seven beds, a bathroom and basic kitchen equipment, $114) and luxurious one- to four-bedroom homes ($499) with all the amenities.
I spent three nights in an upscale two-bedroom, two-bathroom outback cabin with living room, full kitchen and a deck with a hot tub and private wooded view. It cost $399 per night on weekdays; $429 on the weekends.
The outback cabins are located near each other, but situated for privacy. Soaking in the hot tub at night, surrounded by the woods and dark skies, it was hard to believe there were cabins on either side, each with their own similar setup.
The resort also has a pool overlooking the gorge, and several restaurants. One of my favorite places to kick back at Adventures on the Gorge was an overlook behind Chetty’s Pub, a casual on-site restaurant with very good food. A row of Adirondack chairs faces the gorge and when sunset comes, the sky show is extra special.
The day after my raft trip, I came across a brochure that reminded me how much I wished I had started white-water rafting decades early. I’m so happy to have no regrets, but next time, I think I’ll try the resort’s jet boat ride on the New River ($28 for a senior like me).