Chicago Tribune (Sunday)

Looking back on a trip to a land of dinosaurs, and all we gained

- By Paul Sereno

New dinosaurs by the dozen fill two large shipping containers poised to depart Niger for Africa’s coast and then travel by ship across the Atlantic destined for my Fossil Lab at the University of Chicago, where a process of cleaning and recomposin­g bones over the coming years will unveil a menagerie of new species. The fossils were collected during a fall 2022 expedition and later will return to Niger, home to the richest fossil beds in Africa.

So, is naming new species

and dutifully returning a nation’s patrimony the end goal of this science adventure? I almost abandoned paleontolo­gy at the start of my career, struggling to see how paleo research and discovery could positively impact human lives.

But fossil science, I came to understand, can be a prelude to meaningful social impact. The profound significan­ce of Niger’s heritage has not been realized, because there are no museum halls for the many tons of fossils and human artifacts unearthed, nor training programs for curators or museum staff. In this setting, fragile remains repatriate­d in crates will inevitably fall into neglect or worse. At stake here is more than just decades of paleontolo­gy work, but rather the safeguardi­ng and celebratio­n of worldclass heritage that could

positively reframe a country’s narrative.

Two urban centers are key to a large-scale initiative regarding Niger’s ancient patrimony — Niamey, the southern capital, and Agadez, a growing oasis town within the Sahara some 560 miles north. In the past, both have benefited from significan­t national and internatio­nal tourism.

Niamey is split by the famed waterway of West Africa, the Niger River. Lying midstream is an uninhabite­d wetlands

island, home to diverse birds, bats and hippos, and floored by granitic boulders that date back billions of years to the birth of the African continent. Called Isle Gaweye, this natural treasure provides an anchor to the Kennedy Bridge, which in 1970 provided the first transit way to join each side of the capital.

Agadez, the regional capital of the north, oversees a parched, rugged landscape larger than France, home to a unique Saharan eco-reserve and the source of nearly all predynasti­c archaeolog­ical and paleontolo­gical heritage.

Over the last millennium, distinctiv­e nomadic and semi-nomadic cultures have crisscross­ed this desert biome, with Agadez as its central crossroads.

Speaking to lead architects at the Chicago office of Stantec, an internatio­nal company with architectu­ral projects around the world, I said, “I need the world’s first zero-energy natural history museums, because the host country Niger doesn’t produce significan­t energy. These museums must withstand extreme heat, fierce wind, occasional dust storms and annual flooding, and building materials should incorporat­e lots of local clay brick and tile.”

I launched NigerHerit­age, an internatio­nal collaborat­ion bringing together my firsthand knowledge of Niger’s ancient treasures, Stantec’s savvy, and diverse voices from Niamey and Agadez, including national and regional leaders, a sultan, mayor and university rector, museum scholars and administra­tors and aspiring archaeolog­ists. Our aim was to sketch the outlines for two inspiring zero-energy museums that overcome all of the hurdles cited above.

For Niamey, the sketches led to draft plans for a

Musée du Fleuve (Museum of the River) on pylons off the Kennedy Bridge, its narrative beginning with the rocks that bore witness to the formation of Africa. Under an energy-absorbing canopy, a sequence of halls present episodes from Africa’s dinosaur era, its resilient stone age Saharans, and finally the natural wonders and fragility of the Niger River ecosystem. Serving as a gateway to an Isle Gaweye eco-reserve, this museum in planning has garnered internatio­nal architectu­ral praise and awards.

For Agadez, we drafted plans for a zero-energy

Musée du Désert Vivant (Museum of the Living Desert) to highlight the region’s enduring cultural legacy as well as its remarkable fossils. Inspired by the centrality of water to life,

the museum rises within a reflecting pool surrounded by a tiled plaza bordered by classrooms and artisan workshops. The timeline of its narrative, the reverse of that in Niamey, starts with halls devoted to the geoand ethnograph­ic setting of the region, followed by halls capturing prehistori­c life in a Green Sahara and scenes from the dinosaur era.

High-profile museum projects

that celebrate Niger’s world-class heritage would elevate national pride, educate and impact every citizen, encourage civilian developmen­t in key cities and resuscitat­e tourism. These projects, a top priority for Niger’s President Mohamed Bazoum, also jibe with all highlighte­d themes in President Joe Biden’s sub-Saharan strategy — fostering openness, enhancing regional stability and representa­tion, promoting economic opportunit­y, and conserving ecosystems and natural resources — and is aligned with United Nations declaratio­ns promoting the rights of indigenous peoples.

 ?? MIKE HETTWER ?? A skeleton of the dinosaur Suchomimus is displayed during a ceremony at the La Flamme de la Paix (Flame of Peace), a monument at a remote desert locale outside the city of Agadez in Niger.
MIKE HETTWER A skeleton of the dinosaur Suchomimus is displayed during a ceremony at the La Flamme de la Paix (Flame of Peace), a monument at a remote desert locale outside the city of Agadez in Niger.
 ?? ?? The Tribune has followed the progress of University of Chicago professor Paul Sereno and his team over several months on an expedition in Niger in Africa. For more informatio­n, also see Africa’s Lost World at paulsereno.uchicago.edu and www. nigerherit­age.org.
The Tribune has followed the progress of University of Chicago professor Paul Sereno and his team over several months on an expedition in Niger in Africa. For more informatio­n, also see Africa’s Lost World at paulsereno.uchicago.edu and www. nigerherit­age.org.
 ?? STANTEC ?? A rendering of the proposed Musée du Désert Vivant (Museum of the Living Desert) for the city of Agadez in Niger.
STANTEC A rendering of the proposed Musée du Désert Vivant (Museum of the Living Desert) for the city of Agadez in Niger.

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