Chicago Tribune (Sunday)

Grooms aspiring to looks beyond traditiona­l tuxedo

- By Sadiba Hasan

When it comes to wedding outfit shopping, brides seem to get all the attention.

There’s New York Bridal Fashion Week, a threeday extravagan­za where brands showcase their newest designs. There is a reality television series dedicated to dress shopping called “Say Yes to the Dress,” which has been running since 2007 and has led to multiple spinoffs. Major cities are replete with bridal boutiques, and buying the bridal gown is often considered one of the first steps in the wedding planning process.

But what about the men getting married?

“I can’t tell you the number of times we get calls a couple of weeks before the wedding,” said Michael Andrews, who has been dressing grooms since 2006 at Michael Andrews Bespoke, his luxury clothing shop in New York. In October, he opened the Groom Shop, also in New York, dedicated solely to the groom shopping experience.

Since the start of the pandemic, when comfort clothes predominat­ed in everyday fashion, Andrews said he has noticed that more grooms are requesting looks for the entire wedding weekend, as multiday wedding celebratio­ns have become more popular, as well as an outfit to change into between the ceremony and reception.

“People in their day-today are kind of dressed down, but whenever they’re looking for an excuse to get dressed up, they’re really doing it right,” Andrews said. “Men recognized that their wedding day was an opportunit­y to express their personalit­ies.”

And many grooms are averting the traditiona­l black tuxedo and crafting custom looks in collaborat­ion with designers.

Travis London, an interior designer who got married in Miami in November, started planning his wedding outfit as soon as he got engaged. He has nostalgia for the weddings he grew up watching and reading about in the magazine Martha Stewart Weddings, which, he said, is why he always knew he wanted an all white outfit for his wedding despite the fact that he loves color.

“I still wanted to feel masculine, but I wanted to play on all the ideas of what a bride will wear,” said London, 35.

“The guys always look the same — a black tux,” he added. “The dresses of the women were all so detailed, so ornate, so beautiful.” Designer Jerome LaMaar custommade a sheer top for London that included a train embellishe­d with buttons. He applied pearls and rough-cut Swarovski crystals to the top by hand. The outfit also included a crown custom made by Soull Ogun, a founder of L’Enchanteur, a jewelry brand.

The custom look took

about three months to complete. “My destiny, my calling, is to make clothes that have a little more flavor and show men they can play with color and textures and shapes that feel good for them,” LaMaar said. “This is their day, too — put the effort in so the person you’re marrying sees that it is an equal conversati­on in the relationsh­ip, through fashion and style.”

Nico Santos, an actor who got married in November, crafted his custom look by weaving both sides of his identity as a Filipino American. He wore a barong, a traditiona­l Filipino formal shirt, by Filipino designer Veejay Floresca. Traditiona­lly, the barong is shirt length, but Santos, 44, wore a midcalf length barong to “evoke bridal,” he said. He paired it with wide-legged pants and a Dries Van Noten jacket that he had previously seen worn by actor Jacob Elordi. The jacket, which is traditiona­lly not worn with a barong, has bold, padded shoulders reminiscen­t of the traditiona­l formal dresses worn by Filipina women.

“You can do whatever you want,” Andrews said. “It is an opportunit­y where you can throw the rules out the window if you want to.”

 ?? ALISHA JUCEVIC/THE NEW YORK TIMES ?? Zeke Smith, left, and Nico Santos on Nov. 4, their wedding day, in Palm Springs, California. Santos wore a barong over wide-legged pants.
ALISHA JUCEVIC/THE NEW YORK TIMES Zeke Smith, left, and Nico Santos on Nov. 4, their wedding day, in Palm Springs, California. Santos wore a barong over wide-legged pants.

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