China Daily Global Edition (USA)
Queen of punk offers tea and scones
At Vivienne Westwood’s first-ever cafe in Shanghai, the bittersweet coffee and sweet lemon meringue tart seems to have little in common with the British Queen of Punk.
Westwood is usually described with the terms “punk rock”, “controversial” and “crackpot”. Delicate afternoon teas seem to inhabit a different world.
But Westwood’s team at the cafe will take pains to convince you that the treats, not to mention the ambience that was “remotely created” by the fashion designer back in London, is the very essence of Dame Vivienne Westwood.
“The idea of having a fashion cafe popped up more than 10 years ago by Vivienne, as we felt as a brand, coffee and a coffee shop are things that naturally link very well with our design, products and the type of people who walk in,” says Giuseppe Aragoni, global commercial director of the eponymous brand founded in 1976.
It has taken more than a year to prepare for the cafe, which is neither a pop-up store nor a spontaneous investment but the prototype of a new business — food and beverage — the 74-year-old fashion designer would like to roll out worldwide, Aragoni says.
“Vivienne has been very much involved (in the preparation and opening of the cafe). Vivienne doesn’t travel much any more, but for Shanghai, she has made extra effort as she loves the city and its culture,” says Aragoni.
In 2011, Westwood debuted her spring summer collection during the Shanghai Fashion Week and lectured at a university on the possibilities of China saving the world through taking action on climate change.
Tucked into a corner of the brand’s flagship store in Shanghai’s K11 Art Mall, the small cafe, almost half the size of an average Starbucks outlet, is separated into two areas.
The main space has been styled to resemble backstage at a fashion show, with special white material, Corian, extending from one of the walls to the floor. The smaller “tea-room” themed space has been inspired by an 18th-century French teahouse. Mini chandeliers dimly light the space decorated with wallpaper featuring paintings from the Wallace Collection, one of Westwood’s favorite museums in London, from which she has continuously drawn inspiration for her fashion design.
Separating the two spaces is a glass wall painted with a giant 13-hour clock, a replica of the design in Westwood’s first shop, “World’s End”.
An afternoon tea set is priced at 238 yuan ($38) for two people, plus a 10 percent service charge. It includes a threetiered tray of desserts and two drinks. Essential offerings like cucumber finger sandwiches, scones with clotted cream and Earl Grey tea are all available from the menu, but the food appears to be the last thing discussed by diners, and fashion and even food bloggers.
On the other hand, latte art featuring the brand’s Orb logo and tableware printed with its signature pattern of tartan fabric have managed to woo local women since its opening, with many willing to pay the same amount of money as they would to have a treat at, say, the Peninsula Shanghai, or Ritz Carlton Pudong, which are considered the most iconic destinations for afternoon tea in Shanghai.
According to Aragoni, the coffee menu has been developed personally by Westwood. All the coffee beans used at the cafe are provided by Pacific Coffee, one of Hong Kong’s largest coffee chains.