Weekend workshop
Little changes can make a big difference with prebuilt structures
Creating a farmhouse with character
Start with a dry fit where the addition attaches to the main structure to hide the seam. Then carefully wrap the vinyl stone sheet around the main structure. Measure carefully and use a soft pencil to mark the crease on the inside fold. Be sure to crease the corners for a tight fit. Check that the wrap is aligned with the bottom of the foundation. Remove and spray the backside with an adhesive and then carefully re-wrap.
Use a sharp hobby knife to trim the window openings. You need to trim extra material on either side of the windows, or they won’t fit. Trim the excess wherever needed. Cut two small triangular sections and glue them to the upper peaks, making sure to carefully blend the seams.
Next, cut a strip of the vinyl stone material to wrap around the foundation of the addition.
Wipe chalk or tempera paint into the mortar lines of the chimneys and then seal everything with a clear flat.
The windows and doors are held in place with barbed tabs. Simply pop them out by placing pressure on the inside against the tabs.
The glazing is held in place by the pressure of the window against the structure. Remove the glazing and set it aside. Notice one side is flat and the other is shiny; when you reassemble the house, have the shiny side facing out. Be aware there’s a top and a bottom to the glazing.
The foundation trim is glued on. It can be removed by slipping a thin, stiff blade behind it and prying it off. The side entrance steps are part of the foundation trim and are screwed on. Cut off the foundation trim on both sides of the side entrance steps.
Next, add .020" styrene strips to the
The windows and doors will just snap in from the outside. Assemble the building by attaching all the screws and subassemblies. Install the windows by placing the glazing into the back and pressing into place. Be sure the glazing is right side up and shiny side out.
I printed window curtains with a computer and placed them behind the glazing for a neat effect.
The house will resemble a stone structure built in the 19th century with a frame addition built early in the 20th century. The paint job will resemble the ones typical through the mid-20th century. This painting technique can be applied to others buildings, with or without the vinyl stone wrap. foundation and .020" x .250" strips to each step to create a tread; be sure to leave a little overhang on the step treads. Don’t apply to the foundation corners where the front porch attaches.
Paint the porch floor, lattice, and steps a color suitable for floor paint.
Then paint the main roof section, porch roof, dormer roof, and side entrance roofs a color suitable for an asphalt shingled roof.
Paint the clapboards on the side addition and dormers front a color of your choice. Also add the clapboard color under the roof eaves at the ends and along the sides where the roof overhangs. Don’t forget to paint the gable ends.
Paint the underside of the porch roof and edges, the side-door overhang, the porch balustrade, and the window and door frames the clapboard color
Finally, paint the window sashes, sills, doors, and balustrade handrails a complementary trim color. You can also paint the shutters the same trim color or a complementary color.