Mugs Stump’s Climbs: A Timeline
With Marius Marstad, made a 19- hour ascent of the Super Couloir on Fitzroy, Patagonia. In spring, climbed Pacific Ocean Wall ( VI 5.10 A5) on El Capitan with Sullivan, making the fifth ascent of the world’s then- hardest aid route.
Attempted, in alpine style, the huge West Face of Gasherbrum IV in the Karakoram Himalaya, Pakistan, with Michael Kennedy. In 3.5 days, the pair surpassed the high point of previous fixedrope attempts. A storm pinned them down for five nights at 23,000 feet, forcing a retreat.
Guided Aconcagua and the Cassin Ridge. Made the first of three attempts on the East Buttress of Mount Johnson in the Ruth Gorge, Alaska, with Lyle Dean. Climbed Kedar Dome and attempted Shivling in India with two clients; afterward, made the first of two attempts on the East Face of Meru, with Dean.
Spent eight days pinned down in a portaledge on a new wall route on the Eye Tooth, Alaska, with Conrad Anker. On his last trip to Antarctica, made solo FAs of the Southwest Face ( 5.7; 2,200 meters) of Mount Gardiner and the West Face ( 5.9; 2,500 meters) of Mount Tyree.
First ascent of the East Face of the Moose’s Tooth ( Dance of the Woo Li Mas
ters) in frigid conditions in March, with Jim Bridwell. The pair then flew in to the Kahiltna Glacier intent on the North Buttress of Mount Hunter, but cold prevented an attempt. Stump returned to the Hunter route in May with Paul Aubrey and climbed it to its intersection with the upper ridge, naming it Moonflower Buttress.
Attempted the Northeast Buttress of Thalay Sagar in the Gangotri region, India, with Laura O’Brien. Extensive waterfall climbing in Telluride, Colorado, including very fast ascents of Bridalveil Falls and the Ames Ice Hose. Many difficult cracks ( 5.11 and 5.12) in Indian Creek, Utah, including several first ascents.
On his third Antarctic trip, made 26 first ascents in the Gothic Mountains with his brother Ed Stump, Paul Fitzgerald, and Dean. Later in the year, made another attempt on the East Face of Meru, with Steve Quinlan, Billy Westbay, Robin Waxman, and Doug Snively.