WEL­COME TO THE GUNKS

Climbing - - PERFECT TENS -

At a cliff known for hor­i­zon­tal in­cuts and enor­mous edges, the two most dis­ap­point­ing slop­ers in the whole Trapps sit right next to each other on this climb. Crux two of five done, all Mac Hor­gan has to do now is pull three suc­ces­sive roofs for a send of

Wel­come to the Gunks. In true Gunks fash­ion, a hard- to- leave no- hands rest sep­a­rates each of th­ese dif­fi­cul­ties. Stances like th­ese are great rest stops for lead­ers to pause and catch their breath, but it also means that me­thod­i­cal on­sight clim­bers bet­ter have pa­tient be­lay­ers below.

This 140- foot test­piece used to ne­ces­si­tate a pair of solid 5.10 clim­bers— both leader and fol­lower. How­ever, a re­cently in­stalled bolt an­chor at the 99- foot mark lets you do it in sin­gle- pitch- crag­ging style, though this does not change the runout over an an­kle- break­ing ledge 15 feet below those slop­ers.

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