WELCOME TO THE GUNKS
At a cliff known for horizontal incuts and enormous edges, the two most disappointing slopers in the whole Trapps sit right next to each other on this climb. Crux two of five done, all Mac Horgan has to do now is pull three successive roofs for a send of
Welcome to the Gunks. In true Gunks fashion, a hard- to- leave no- hands rest separates each of these difficulties. Stances like these are great rest stops for leaders to pause and catch their breath, but it also means that methodical onsight climbers better have patient belayers below.
This 140- foot testpiece used to necessitate a pair of solid 5.10 climbers— both leader and follower. However, a recently installed bolt anchor at the 99- foot mark lets you do it in single- pitch- cragging style, though this does not change the runout over an ankle- breaking ledge 15 feet below those slopers.