feel­ing the strain on the runout crux of Black Magic (E5 6a, 5c; 5.11c).

Climbing - - FACES -

On Corn­wall’s At­lantic coast is an enor­mous sweep of jet-black pil­low lava form­ing the mighty Pen­tire Head. In the morn­ings, the rock is of­ten coated in a treach­er­ous film, but on late-sum­mer evenings when the mois­ture has lifted, it’s a charm­ing place. No sec­tion on Black

Magic is des­per­ate, but there is no rest for those tir­ing feet ei­ther as you au­gur in on dime edges to place tiny wires. I will never for­got the day I ab­seiled in to take pho­tos. Bri­tish Moun­taineer­ing Coun­cil’s Dave Turn­bull was host­ing an in­ter­na­tional climbers’ meet, and it wasn’t till he was half­way up the first pitch that he wished for stiffer boots. It didn’t help ei­ther that the ad­ja­cent climber on the equally com­mit­ting Dark­in­bad the Bright­dayler had crossed his ropes over Dave’s!

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