The truth about ‘ shrimp on the barbie’
REAL AUSTRALIAN GRILLING CALLS FOR SNAGS, RISSOLES AND MARONS
Leaving aside the new campaign for Australian tourism starring Chris Helmsworth and Danny McBride, there are several generations who recall a rather rakish star of the 1980s, Paul Hogan, suggesting a trip to the land Down Under during an earlier pitch. It was a place of eternal sunshine and laid- back vibes, where everyone was seconds away from throwing a shrimp on the barbie.
That 30- year- old tourism campaign by the “Crocodile Dundee” star left a rather indelible mark. But just what is an Australian barbecue?
First off, it’s best to use the proper terminology.
“We actually call them prawns,” says Chris McPherson, referring to the shrimp that became synonymous with a McPherson is co- partner, along with Chris Rendell, of Flinders Lane, a restaurant that opened in Stamford late last year. It brings contemporary cuisine of their homeland, Australia, to American diners. Their other location is in New York City.
Then, there are the ubiquitous sausages, or snags, that are grilled up and placed in a slice of white bread and doused with ketchup. It’s a bit of a national pastime, actually, with traditional sausage sizzles going on during Election Day and for other fundraising events. Rissoles are Australia’s version of a hamburger, which are more the flavor of meatloaf or meatballs. Skewers can go by the name of shashliks depending on where they are being served. And, yes, you can find some kangaroo, too, as burgers, fillets or sausage. But cook it quick. Like venison, it’s a lean meat that can sometimes run gamy. As for the seafood, prawns do just fine, but there also are marrons ( Western Australian crayfish) and yabbies, which are crustaceans similar to lobsters.
Get as fancy or as simple as desired. Flinders Lane Stamford restaurant head chef Brad Stewart, a fellow Australian, says his mum, for instance, simply grills off thin slices of potatoes dressed lightly with olive oil and salt and pepper.
“You get all the burnt, crispy bits,” he says.
While the restaurant focuses on more sophisticated fare, McPherson and Stewart have fond memories of Aussie barbecues, which start with a hot grill, an esky ( that’s Australian for cooler, mate) of beer, some simple dishes and plenty of time for socializing.
“The first thing I did when I went back home two months ago was to get outside and have a barbecue,” says McPherson on a recent afternoon at the downtown restaurant. He came to the United States 12 years ago from Melbourne. “The doors are open and everyone is out and chatting away … it’s a great way of life.”
Stewart expects the same kind of reception when he returns home to South Wales next month. “You can jazz it up, but I like simple dishes, minimalistic. That’s what I crave.”
This summer, the two have brought a taste of home with catered barbecue outings to the Hamptons, where there is a community of expats. On this afternoon, Stewart has lined up dishes that would be featured, such as small lamb loin chops dusted with salt and pepper and flavored with olive oil, garlic and rosemary. A plate of shrimp with a marinade of butter, chili and lime sits ready for heat, as well as chicken breasts with a parsley, mint and lemon juice marinade.
Keep some chicken salt on hand, too, for a quick rub. A top saltbased seasoning in Australia, this mix of onion, paprika, garlic and other ingredients, was initially used to flavor chicken, but has expanded its reach to many foods, including fries and chips.
“Old- school barbecuing is a lot more like peasant- style food, but these days, people are putting in blends, like southeast Asia flavors,” he says. “When I was growing up, it was very basic.”
When Stewart is behind the line, however, he creates that dishes that offer the flavor of modern- day Australian cuisine. “Australian food is not a specific thing, but rather multicultural,” he says, of the influences that stretch from northern Europe to southeast Asia. It’s why sausage rolls share menu space with chicken and lemongrass dumplings. “There is the British influence and southeast Asia, as well as Italian and Greek immigrants and it’s a smash of all that. There is no particular style of Australian cooking, but there are certain dishes that are staples.”
An example of which was sitting right before him, mini lamington cakes, which are often brought to a barbie. Pound, sponge or white cake is covered with chocolate and then dipped in dried coconut. Then, there is the country’s traditional dessert, the pavlova. This meringue heavy recipe is impressive to see, but difficult to make. If you happen to be in Australia for its national holiday in January, chances are one might make its way to a celebratory barbecue.
Whatever you do, just make sure to make the cooking time quick and easy. Without knocking the backyard maestros who spend hours upon hours smoking and slow- cooking meats for prizewinning dishes or gourmet sides, Stewart says the beauty of an Aussie barbecue is in the socializing and a spontaneous approach. And, in that sense, Hogan was right on the money — a party can happen at any time, with good company and some hot coals.
“The food is important, sure,” Stewart says. “But it’s really more about being outside, socializing and having a good time.”