A Storied Journey
Discover historic and scenic treasures along the Great River Road in Illinois and Missouri.
Discover charm, history and beauty in the small towns and countryside along the Mississippi River.
The Mississippi River inspires precious childhood memories—fishing for crappie and bluegill with my dad, watching Fourth of July fireworks over the I-74 bridge that connects Illinois and Iowa.
My first long bike ride wended 15 miles on the paved river trail; I reveled in my adolescent freedom. Aboard a riverboat cruise for an after-prom party, the spring night river air brimmed with possibility.
And yet—the river is always boss. As a young girl, I remember seeing a house on stilts, built to avoid springtime floods along the Mississippi in my hometown of Moline, Illinois. When I graduated from high school in 1993, both the Mississippi and Missouri rivers flooded to epic levels.
Our entire community was touched by the rising waters. My family lost the trailer we camped in along the river’s backwaters; my dad stopped fishing the river. It had changed, he said.
But for me, a drive along this
portion of the Great River Road means experiencing again the power and promise of the Mississippi throughout my life.
An upfront view of change and natural history—that’s the treat for drivers on the scenic Great River Road along the Illinois-Iowa border and south into Missouri. The 550-mile route winds among towering bluffs, rolling hills and charming small towns. Along the way, you’ll discover the history of people (Native Americans, European immigrants, pioneers, agriculture innovators, artists and writers) who have been a part of this land for centuries.
"THE 550-MILE ROUTE WINDS AMONG TOWERING BLUFFS, ROLLING HILLS AND CHARMING SMALL TOWNS."
Starting at the northern border of Illinois, one of the first stops on the journey southward is the picturesque town of Galena. It’s a popular destination known for its history, architecture, quaint downtown, and hills and valleys untouched by the glaciers.
On my first visit, I emerged onto Main Street to find it swarming with Boy Scouts. It was April, during the annual Boy Scout Pilgrimage when thousands of Scouts converge to camp, see the home of Ulysses S. Grant and watch Civil War re-enactments.
Galena is named after the Latin word for lead sulfide, a mineral mined by Native Americans for over a thousand years. The population ballooned in the 19th century as Galena was the center of the first major mineral rush and the busiest steamboat hub between St. Paul, Minnesota, and St. Louis, Missouri.
Besides Grant, eight other Civil War-era generals lived in Galena. Grant’s home, the notable DeSoto
House Hotel, and many stores and elegant residences are beautifully restored: 85 percent of Galena’s buildings are listed on the National Registry of Historic Places.
About a half hour south, near Savannah, Mississippi Palisades State Park preserves 2,500 acres at the confluence of the Mississippi and Apple rivers. The park showcases the river’s bluffs and steep cliffs as well as the history of Native Americans who first lived here.
Erosion has formed intriguing rock palisades like “Twin Sisters” and “Indian Head.” And deep ravines like the ones here are a key feature of the Mississippi River terrain. They overflow with ferns, maple, white birch, and a rich flower population of yellow lady slipper, shooting star, trillium, bluebell and lobelia.
Another hour south on the Great River Road brings you to the Quad Cities, a metropolis whose rich cultural life centers on the river. Moline is the smallest of the four towns. While I was a teenager
there, a favorite spot to visit was Lagomarcino’s, the confectionary started by Italian immigrants in 1908. “Lago’s” retains its elegant storefront with a Victorian tin ceiling and tiled floor. My mom worked there in the 1990s and I loved sipping malts at the counter. Today you can taste chocolates made with the original recipe while sitting at the same counter.
In downtown Moline, the John Deere Pavilion honors the influence of the agricultural legend who moved his plow factory here in 1848, fostering the spirit of entrepreneurism that still prevails.
Every visit home for me is marked by a trip to the John Deere Tractor and Engine Museum. My three children love to climb aboard the enormous green and yellow combines, tractors, and logging machines and to play with smaller toys and interactive displays. (And, truth be told, so do the parents and grandparents!)
HISTORIC NAUVOO
Heading further south, you’ll find Nauvoo, which enthralled me when I first saw it as an 11-year-old twirling my baton in a parade across the river in Fort Madison, Iowa. Known for its Mormon history, Nauvoo arose during 1839-46, when Joseph Smith and his followers drained the nearby swamps and built the town.
You can see many of the Latterday Saints’ buildings in Nauvoo’s historical business district during a walking tour of Mulholland Street. Not far away, kids will enjoy the Family Living Center, where they can make a rope to take home, taste bread from a brick oven, and experience more pioneer activities, like a covered wagon ride.
IN TWAIN’S FOOTSTEPS
Cross over the Mississippi into Missouri to visit Mark Twain’s boyhood home and museum in Hannibal. You can see his desk, typewriter and more, and the museum also displays 15 original Norman Rockwell paintings.
While in Hannibal you can tour the cave complex you read about in The Adventures of Tom Sawyer or climb aboard a riverboat for a trip on the water Twain celebrated.
And in Cardiff Hill Park, the Mark Twain Memorial Lighthouse, built in 1935 to honor Twain’s 100th birthday, rewards those who climb its 244 steps with a stunning panoramic view of Hannibal and the Mississippi River. On your way down, make sure to stop by the foot of Cardiff Hill to see a statue of Huck Finn and Tom Sawyer.
EAGLES AND EXPLORERS
It’s worth another jaunt back into Illinois for a stop in Alton. Three great rivers—the Mississippi, Missouri and Illinois—converge in this location. From December through February bald eagles winter here, soaring overhead and nesting in the trees. Seeing eagles was a rare thing in my 1980s childhood, but the population has grown, thanks to protective measures. Glimpsing the magnificent birds inspires awe.
Finally, history buffs should visit the Illinois historic site at Camp River Dubois in Hartford, the departure point for Lewis and Clark’s legendary expedition, which set off in 1804.
I now live on Lake Superior— another immense body of water. But I long for the lush springtime smell of the riverbed. Whenever I get home, the feeling of dropping down to the banks of the steadily flowing river reminds me of when my life moved steadily forward, future unknown. It’s good to know there are more stories to come.