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While published profiles can offer some clues to the unique flavors and aromas a particular strain will lend, a yeast’s complex interaction with wort composition, hops aromatics, and even fermentor geometry means that some trial and error is often in order.

Yeast selection, of course, isn’t just about numbers. Stylistic considerations are also important, and the difference between a good beer and a great one can easily come down to yeast selection. While published profiles can offer some clues to the unique flavors and aromas a particular strain will lend, a yeast’s complex interaction with wort composition, hops aromatics, and even fermentor geometry means that some trial and error is often in order.

“You just have to practice and discover what works best for you,” Leinhart emphasizes.

Keep in mind that Belgian is a broad term that includes a great number of distinct styles and that some strains are best suited to certain kinds of beer. Belgian saison, for example, showcases a spicy phenolic character (think cloves and pepper) that is largely a by-product of yeast selection (some saisons are actually spiced, but this need not be the case). Fermenting a tripel with the same strain would no doubt produce an excellent ale, but it probably wouldn’t turn out a classic tripel.

Belgian pale ale (See “Pales in Comparison,” page 74) is fermented with a relatively clean yeast strain that shares more similarities with Chico (American and California ale) and lager yeasts than it does with abbey-style varieties. One could ferment any ale with such a strain, but the expected esters won’t present in the desired amounts for, say, a wit.

We can divide Belgian yeasts into a few categories, according to the beer styles for which they’re best suited. Belgian pale ale strains are fairly neutral and can be hard to find. White Labs WLP515 Antwerp Ale and Wyeast 3655PC Belgian Schelde Ale, available as seasonal strains, are both good choices. In the absence of these, a relatively clean American-ale strain is a good choice. Abbey and Trappist strains deliver the signature fruity esters and spicy phenols that characterize what most beer drinkers instantly recognize as “Belgian.” Start with WLP500 Monastery Ale (formerly Trappist Ale) and WLP530 Abbey Ale from White Labs or 1214 Belgian Abbey and 3787 Trappist High Gravity from Wyeast to get a feel for what you like and then try some of the other strains. Belgian Strong Ale yeasts can tolerate the high alcohol of golden and dark strong ales. White Labs WLP570 Belgian Golden Ale and Wyeast 1388 Belgian Strong Ale are classics, but Abbey and Trappist strains can turn out great examples as well. Saison strains include a spicy component that can come across as peppery and clove-like. They also tend to leave a distinctive dry tartness. White Labs WLP565 Belgian Saison I and Wyeast 3724 Belgian Saison are reported to have been sourced from Brasserie Dupont, but both are prone to stalling at around 1.035. Raising the fermentation temperature to as high as 95°F (35°C) can get you over the hump, or try Wyeast 3711 French Saison, which is so aggressive that you might think it will ferment through the carboy itself. Witbier yeast offers up a tart, fruity flavor that makes it the ideal accompaniment to the coriander and citrus typically found in Belgian whites. Classic strains for that refreshing, thirst-quenching characteristic include White Labs WLP400 Belgian Wit and Wyeast 3944 Belgian Witbier.

There are of course, plenty of other strains, including any number of lambic and sour blends, but starting out with one of these basic options will place you squarely on the path to Belgian bliss.