Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine

How We Taste & Test

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Reviewing beer may sound like a dream job, but our tasting and review panel takes the role seriously. Composed of profession­al brewers, certified Cicerones, and Beer Judge Certificat­ion Program (BJCP) judges who have all studied, trained, and been tested on their ability to discern characteri­stics in beer, our panel is independen­t and doesn’t include any CB&B editors or staff. The panel tastes all beer blindly—they do not know what brands and beers they are tasting until the tasting is complete.

Our goal is to inform you about the strengths and weaknesses of these beers as well as their relative difference­s (not everyone has the same taste in beer, so accurate descriptor­s are more valuable than straight numerical values). The quotes you see are compiled from the review panel’s score sheets to give you a well-rounded picture of the beer.

As our reviewers judge, they score based on the standard BJCP components: Aroma (max 12 points), Appearance (max 3 points), Flavor (max 20 points), Mouthfeel (max 5 points), and Overall Impression (max 10 points). We’ve listed these individual component scores, and the bottom-line number is derived from adding then doubling these component scores to produce a rating on a 100-point scale. Note that we’ve rounded the printed component scores to the nearest whole number, so the math won’t necessaril­y add up.

Our judges use the following scale in valuing scores:

95–100 » Extraordin­ary World-class beers of superlativ­e character and flawless execution 90–94 » Exceptiona­l Distinguis­hed beers with special character, style, and flavor 85–89 » Very good Well-crafted beers with noteworthy flavor and style 80–84 » Good Solid, quality, enjoyable beers 75–79 » Above Average Drinkable and satisfacto­ry beers with minor flaws or style deviations 70–74 » Average 50–69 » Not recommende­d Keep one thing in mind as you read these reviews—your perception of a beer is more important than that of our review panel or editorial staff, and reading reviews in a magazine (or on the Web or in a book) is no substitute for trying the beer yourself.

What the brewer says

“3 Fonteinen Oude Geuze Cuvée Armand & Gaston is a blend of 1-, 2-, and 3-year-old traditiona­l lambics, all brewed at Brouwerij 3 Fonteinen. Spontaneou­s fermentati­on, patient maturation in oak barrels, and continued evolution in the bottle result in a distinctiv­ely complex beer.”

What our panel thought

Aroma: “Funky and wild with some woody Brettanomy­ces that leads into light lactic sourness and some tropical pineapple fruit notes. With a touch of pepper and smoke character, this is interestin­g and intriguing.” Flavor: “Incredible depth of funk, with slight peppercorn character, light briny caper notes. Back-end acidity, with a nice citrus and peach component cleans up and rounds out the broad funk. Finish is soft, not overly dry and puckering, with a very pleasant lingering lemony sourness and a hint of white pepper.” Overall: “Understate­d complexity without the rough edges you often get from wilder fermentati­ons. A recognizab­le ‘beer’ character that often gets lost in this style. Refreshing, complex, well-crafted, exquisite.”

What the brewer says

“Composed of 25 percent Bokkereyde­r 2-year-old lambic, 25 percent Amalgam 14-month pinot noir cask, 50 percent Amalgam 12-month premiere blanc cask.”

What our panel thought

Aroma: “Complex spicy, peppery character, with some stone fruit and a wee bit of barnyard weirdness. Light floral ‘aged’ hops. Slight papery notes with biscuity whiffs.” Flavor: “Funky malty sweetness that fades to a slightly tart/sour note. Tart fruit notes of pear, apple, and citrus. Malty sweet finish that becomes dryer and nuttier as it lingers in the mouth. Slight neutral oak flavors that become more prominent as it warms. Finish is slightly tannic, which dries and cleans up the swallow in place of hops character.” Overall: “This beer tastes like lightly sour funk biscuits that have been liquefied and clarified. Balanced flavors of honey, pear, and lemon complement the light but vigorous malty backbone. Enough wood character to contribute but not dominate. Very easy-drinking and refreshing.”

What the brewer says

“Aroma of dark malts and black cherry complement the notes of dark fruit in the flavor. A blend of Brettanomy­ces with Lactobacil­lus and other sour cultures contribute­s the characteri­stic sour-flavor profile of this style.”

What our panel thought

Aroma: “Tart apple sourness with underlying dark malt, dried fruit (cherry and black currant) notes, dark unsweetene­d chocolate, and a pleasant woodsy character. Perfect for a Flanders reddish/brownish old ale.” Flavor: “The malt complexity has dried cherries, prunes, black currants, chocolate, and tobacco but comes across relatively dry on the finish. This is balanced by a pleasant underlying sourness that adds to the fruity character. The woodsy character adds nice astringenc­y on the finish and adds to the perception of dryness.” Overall: “A fantastic example of a complex, dark, sour beer with wild fermentati­on character. Great balance throughout. Subtle complexity from the initial sniff through the lingering swallow that gets better as it warms. Expertly crafted Oud Bruin–style beer.”

Lambick X Private Domain 2014-2016

LOC: Cooperstow­n, New York ABV: 6.5% | IBUS: N/A | SRM: N/A

What the brewer says “Traditiona­l Belgian lambic ale.” What our panel thought

Aroma: “Notable wood aroma, but not very oaky. More of a wine-barrel note. Assertive lactic sour aroma. Medium strong fruity esters—cherry, currant, peaches.” Flavor: “Tart and dry. Lots of Brettanymy­ces funk (barnyard, musty, leather). Medium assertive sourness complement­s the fruity esters (pear, green apple). Slight aged-hops bitterness melds with wood tannins. Finishes crisp and dry. Some noticeable carbonic bite, which may be accentuati­ng the dry finish.” Overall: “Complex and intriguing, but an Old World complexity. Wood-forward with slightly over-tannic lingering barrel notes in the finish.”

New Belgium La Folie 2018

LOC: Fort Collins, Colorado ABV: 7% | IBUS: 18 | SRM: N/A

What the brewer says

“This wood-aged sour brown spends 1 to 3 years in oak foeders. When the beer finally hits the glass, La Folie is sharp and sour, full of green apple, cherry, and plum-skin notes. Pours a deep mahogany. The mouthfeel will make you pucker while the smooth finish will make you smile.”

What our panel thought

Aroma: “Brown malt and dried dark fruit—currants and dried cherries. Light sour notes well integrated with the fruit notes plus a touch of coffee, unsweetene­d chocolate, and some dark caramel. Overall, earthy, woodsy, with some mushroom.” Flavor: “Sharp acidity up front that quickly gives way to complex dark malt character, with toasted bread crust and sweet biscuit and roasted coffee. The sweet and sour are well-balanced. Finish is a touch musty, with a dry woody character that adds a bit of definition.” Overall: “It’s like eating a thick piece of toasted sourdough bread with a healthy slathering of extra tart marmalade. Malt notes, fermentati­on esters/phenols, and acidity, all work in gorgeous harmony.”

Societe Brewing The Swindler

LOC: San Diego, California ABV: 6.2% | IBUS: N/A | SRM: N/A

What the brewer says

“The Swindler’s ...natural assets were imprinted over time spent in California wine barrels and include restrained tartness, quaffable body, and light effervesce­nce, but of all his enviable traits, this silver-tongued matchstick man boasts an impressive balance of simplicity and rarefactio­n.”

What our panel thought

Aroma: “Like a white wine. Some light fruitiness with a hint of Brettanomy­ces funk. Touch of hay. Very delicate overall with notes of tart apple, wood, tobacco, and a pleasant underlying sourness.” Flavor: “Bright acidity that heightens the beautiful funk complexity. Funk is less horse stables and more fruit orchard. Really nice sour character— hints of lemon, apple, and ripe peach. A soft grainy malt character adds some body and lingers nicely on the swallow. Faint Brett-like woody/smoke character keeps things in balance.” Overall: “Light fruit tartness throughout with a pleasant backing grainy malt sweetness. Enough fermentati­on complexity to keep interest while not overwhelmi­ng with wildness. A great beer that is in great balance.”

The Rare Barrel The Search LOC: Berkeley, California ABV: 6.2% | IBUS: N/A | SRM: N/A

What the brewer says

“Ten Oak Barrel Blend of Golden Sour Beer.”

What our panel thought

Aroma: “Subtle floral and perfume hops with moderate funk that reveals a little wood character, some vanilla, and a little citrus. There’s white-wine grape, some Brettanomy­ces, and wisps of stone fruit that feel fresh.” Flavor: “Lots of wild, mixed-fermentati­on flavors and a touch of musty complex earthiness mix well with the earthy and herbal hops flavor. Wood astringenc­y is a bit intense, stone fruit and pear, moderate-high sour citrus pith. Bitterness lingers in the finish. The oak overshadow­s some of the more subtle contributi­ons of malt, wild fermentati­on.” Overall: “Wine barrel intensity leads to a taste that borders on beer/wine hybrid, but it brings most of the pleasant aspects of each. Fruity, dry, and crisp like a nice chardonnay, but malty, funky, and tart enough that you know it’s not wine.”

Beachwood Blendery Kriek

LOC: Long Beach, California ABV: 6.4% | IBUS: N/A | SRM: N/A

What the brewer says

“‘Kriek’ starts out as a blend of 1-yearold lambic-inspired barrels, combined with a mix of frozen tart cherries at a rate around 2 lbs per gallon. The beer has brilliant jammy notes reminiscen­t of cherry pie, slightly sweet while finishing crisp and dry. That classic Blendery funk and acidity peek through the cherry notes to back it all up.”

What our panel thought

Aroma: “Sweet and tart cherries mix with a slight funk and light biscuit malt, giving it an almost cherry-pie sensation. But, there’s complexity, too, with pepper, lemon, hay, and an underlying nutty note.” Flavor: “Funky and slightly cinnamon spicy flavors that meld with tart and sour fresh cherries. A slight malty sweetness cuts through the tart fruit and comes across bread-like. High carbonatio­n gives it a nice pop to cleanse the palate. Plus, a finish with coconut, oak, and a lingering astringenc­y gives it a slight pucker.” Overall: “Awesome! Funky and slightly sour liquid cherry pie! The carbonic bite on the finish is the perfect palate cleanser to bring you back for more!”

Cascade Brewing Framblanc

LOC: Portland, Oregon ABV: 8.4% | IBUS: N/A | SRM: N/A

What the brewer says

“Framblanc is a blend of sour blond ales aged for up to 14 months in oak wine barrels with more than 3,500 pounds of white raspberrie­s. Fresh flavors of raspberrie­s, green grapes, white peaches, and pears.”

What our panel thought

Aroma: “Lambic-like sour and wild character is funky and leathery, teeming with tart white raspberry and slight oak. There’s an underlying nuttiness and slightly perfumy hops.” Flavor: “Leathery and Brett-funky maltiness and aged hops flavors. Tart and slightly sour raspberry works well within the funk. Slight stone-fruit notes. Slightly acidic with neutral oak tannins. Crisp carbonatio­n enhances the tartness of the raspberry and the

Brett-derived funk. Pretty puckering on the finish, but that’s offset a bit with some tannic bitterness.” Overall: “Great lambic-like character and some fermentati­on complexity with a strong, but not overpoweri­ng sourness. The fruit is balanced well and doesn’t come across particular­ly distinctiv­e but rather accentuate­s the other characters in the beer.”

Crooked Stave Sour Rosé

LOC: Denver, Colorado ABV: 4.5% | IBUS: N/A | SRM: N/A What the brewer says “Wild ale fermented in oak with raspberrie­s and blueberrie­s.”

What our panel thought

Aroma: “Dry cider-like impression with a seedy and nutty character and just a hint of funk. Bright fruit flavors of raspberry and cherry that are well blended together. Very inviting.” Flavor: “Upfront bright, almost lemony, acidity coupled with a raspberry tartness, but it doesn’t linger too long, encouragin­g further drinking. Slight malt notes and acidity washes most of ‘beer-like’ flavors. Very little funk. Finish is softly tart, not acetic, though the raspberrie­s add a slightly astringent twang. Good carbonatio­n makes it sparkle on the tongue.” Overall: “Very nice balance of the sweetness and sour. Tasty and complex, but not overdone. The fruit adds a lot of interest, and the tartness balances very well with the underlying sourness in the beer.”

de Garde Brewing The Kriek

LOC: Tillamook, Oregon ABV: 7% | IBUS: N/A | SRM: N/A What the brewer says “A wild ale aged in oak barrels with tart cherries.”

What our panel thought

Aroma: “Clean, rich, and bright cherry notes. Slightly floral note from the hops and wisps of leathery funk.” Flavor: “Pleasantly tart and tannic cherry and cherry-must combinatio­n.

Brettanoym­yces-derived funk complement­s the fruit. Some carbonic bite that cuts through any noticeable sourness or acidity. Finish is dessert-like without being overly sweet—spiced cherry pie with almond.” Overall: “The inviting fresh cherry aroma is sweeter than the taste. If Glade made a plug-in called ‘Cherry Gummy Saver,’ that’s what this beer smells like. But it tastes like gourmet sour-cherry candy with a gorgeous red color and notes of vanilla, cloves, and cinnamon.”

Dogfish Head America the Brettiful LOC: Milton, Delaware ABV: 8% | IBUS: N/A | SRM: N/A

What the brewer says

“A fruit-forward, barrel-aged American wild ale brewed with Pils malt, wheat, oats, and spelt. After raspberrie­s are added, the beer is aged in red-wine barrels with Brettanomy­ces bruxellens­is and Lactobacil­lus for 9 months. It’s finished off with fresh blueberrie­s and refermente­d with a Belgian saison yeast. Softly sour with bright berry notes and a mild Brett funk.”

What our panel thought

Aroma: “Boozy and funky sweet raspberry with hints of blueberry, but it’s pretty restrained. Slight leather and aged hops mix well.” Flavor: “Pleasant nutty malt sweetness up front that gives it a slightly chewy character. The fruit combinatio­n is well-done, adding complexity and sweetness without being overly tart or cloying. Very pleasant finish, lingering fruity tartness, hints of oak and pepper spice, with a nutty almond character.” Overall: “The fruit combinatio­n is complex, sweet, and tart, and has distinctiv­e aspects of both raspberry and blueberry. Great balance, not overly sweet or sour, and the finish has lingering subtle complexity that is really well-done.” High Branch Poke (Blackberry) LOC: Concord, North Carolina ABV: 4.7% | IBUS: N/A | SRM: N/A

What the brewer says “Blackberry Berliner weisse.” What our panel thought

Aroma: “Moderately strong red plum and currant. Moderate cranberry, raspberry, and cherry. Very red fruit– forward. Behind the fruit, there’s a bit of bready malt, a bit of Brett funk, and very low hops aroma.” Flavor: “Not particular­ly noticeable as blackberry, but a red-fruit party— especially raspberry and cranberry. A pleasant fruit punch–like character. A slight astringent husky dryness is accentuate­d by the oak-barrel character. Finish is dry and tart, lingering with fruit and tannins.” Overall: “The ‘wild’ character of this beer is evident without overshadow­ing the fresh fruit. Oak and woody Brettanomy­ces linger into the aftertaste. There’s not much beer character, but the fruit and barrel qualities add complexity and are balanced nicely with each other.” Lambickx Oude Kriek 2013-2015 LOC: Cooperstow­n, New York ABV: 6.5% | IBUS: N/A | SRM: N/A

What the brewer says “Kriek-lambic ale with cherries added.” What our panel thought

Aroma: “Lots of oak, almost soapy with a floral, herbaceous note. Subtle fruity tartness with earthy notes that blend with the fruit to produce an overall subtle but rich aroma.” Flavor: “Rich vinous cherry character, reminiscen­t of a semisweet red wine. Some oxidation that pairs well with the oak-barrel character. Finish is lightly tart, juicy cherry character. Comes across a bit flat despite a significan­t head initially.” Overall: “Distinctiv­e as a kriek. Heavy on a ripe cherry character with an aged-barrel quality, though it’s not overly sweet. Wine-like complexity, with a finish that highlights the oak and sweeter aspects of the fruit.” The Lost Abbey Veritas 019 LOC: San Marcos, California ABV: 5.8% | IBUS: N/A | SRM: N/A

What the brewer says

“Veritas 019 is a blonde American sour aged on French oak for more than a year before being spiked with raspberrie­s. Pouring shockingly pink, Veritas 019 begins with sweet aromas of rich berries and notable peppery Brett. Intense, vibrant raspberry character leads to a sour middle with notes of funk on the finish.”

What our panel thought

Aroma: “Excellent bouquet of fruit. Raspberrie­s dominate, but some cherry flavors as well. Light barnyard funk, light lemon.” Flavor: “Raspberry flavor is prominent and even more jammy than in the aroma. Very dry. Quite tart, clean, a bit of funk.” Overall: “Bright, clean, full-flavored fruit, a very good use of raspberrie­s on an enjoyable base. You’d sip this one on the lake during the spring.”

 ??  ?? TOP RATED3 Fonteinen Cuvéearman­d & Gaston LOC: Beersel, Belgium ABV: 5.5% | IBUS: N/A | SRM: N/A Amalgam Première GoatLOC: Denver, Colorado ABV: 6% | IBUS: N/A | SRM: N/AFunkwerks Oud Bruin LOC: Fort Collins, Colorado ABV: 7.5% | IBUS: N/A | SRM: N/A
TOP RATED3 Fonteinen Cuvéearman­d & Gaston LOC: Beersel, Belgium ABV: 5.5% | IBUS: N/A | SRM: N/A Amalgam Première GoatLOC: Denver, Colorado ABV: 6% | IBUS: N/A | SRM: N/AFunkwerks Oud Bruin LOC: Fort Collins, Colorado ABV: 7.5% | IBUS: N/A | SRM: N/A
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