Spontaneous Specialprojects
Spontaneously fermented beers are some of the most prized of the brewers’ canon, thanks to the time they require to produce and the nuance of blending. Here are some of our favorites that fall outside of breweries’ standard production calendars.
Brasserie Cantillon Kriek à l’ecossaise
Served at the 2018 Shelton Brothers Festival in Denver, Colorado, this exquisitely rich take on kriek was an eye opener. Earthy cherry notes interplay with restrained layers of smoke/char, light acidity, bright minerality, and a rich but unexpected umami note that destroys any notion of expectation for fruited sour beer. A standout among great beers. ABV: 5% IBUS: N/A Loc: Brussels, Belgium
Gueuzerie Tilquin Oude Gueuze Squared
When a batch of Oude Gueuze overcarbonated in bottles, Tilquin emptied the bottles back into oak to settle down before packaging again. The result is a higher-gravity gueuze where the typical bright and light Brett citrus character takes on a richer, almost saucepan-reduced orange zest note backed by a stronger malt note. More intense in the best possible way. ABV: 7.6% IBUS: N/A Loc: Bierghes, Belgium
Jester King Spon Flor
Sherry barrels have a way of making things great, whether it’s Scotch whiskey or sour beer. With this special bottling of Spon, barrels of Spon were inoculated by migrating flor from adjacent sherry barrels, and the result is big—musty with a note that’s a bit like orange marmalade and lemon curd on a thick slice of toasted multigrain bread. It trades sharp clarity for woody layers of soft intrigue but finishes crisp and dry. ABV: 5.1% IBUS: N/A Loc: Austin, Texas
3 Fonteinen Zenne Y Frontera Solera
Somehow this sherry barrel–conditioned take on lambic is both more clearly defined and more lower-key citrus (think orange/tangerine more than lemon/lime) than their regular Oude Gueuze, while managing to simultaneously taste richer but drier. Every rough edge has been sanded, lacquered, and polished to a mirror shine in this extraordinary lambic. ABV: 7% IBUS: N/A Loc: Lot, Belgium
Allagash Coolship la Vigne
Working from a traditional Pilsner malt and raw wheat base, this coolship beer was blended with Sabrevois and St. Croix grapes from a Maine winery. The result is indeed wine-forward but in an earthy, light, stone-fruit way. Lively carbonation tickles the tongue, and the finish is snappy, always inviting another sip.
ABV: 8.4% IBUS: N/A Loc: Portland, Maine