Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine

SIDE PROJECT BEER : BARREL : TIME

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(SAINT LOUIS, MISSOURI)

Like a Frank Gehry building, Side Project’s

Beer : Barrel : Time is a definitive statement, bombastic in scale yet unapologet­ic in its creative vision. The late 2019 vintage follows in the big footprints of the previous two releases, with broad volumes of finely sculpted dark chocolate and espresso, tighter flowing forms of creamy caramel, Nutella, and roasted peanut, and a subtle marshmallo­w sheen reflecting off the facade. Big barrel notes of vanilla and oak come on strong but gently, with curving edges and a cohesive sureness. Imposing forms juxtapose in ways that would be jarring under a hand less deft.

The engineerin­g necessary to construct such a year-in, year-out marvel is impressive—a product of blending, it’s built from components of varying recipes and time, barreled and aged for an average of 22 months with a belief in possibilit­y more than express purpose.

Spirits-barrel-aged beer is still young—barely a quarter-century old—and the category has only become significan­t in the past decade. But Side Project have earned their place in that young history by showcasing a mastery of design, technical process, and blending that have made them both commercial­ly successful and highly influentia­l among their peers. Beer : Barrel : Time not only showcases their own prowess. It deserves a place at the table with the finest artisanal beverages produced anywhere in the world.

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