Sub­lime Shi­bori Shawl

Creative Knitting - - CONTENTS - De­sign by Gina Wilde cour­tesy of Alchemy Yarns

To in­crease the dramatic effect of this pleas­ing com­bi­na­tion of tex­tures, a “feather and fan” lace stitch pat­tern is in­cor­po­rated to create a beau­ti­ful un­du­lat­ing move­ment at the bot­tom of this strik­ing shawl.

Fin­ished Mea­sure­ments

Ap­prox­i­mately 56 inches wide (across top edge) x 22 inches long, af­ter felt­ing and block­ing Ap­prox­i­mately 47 inches wide x 21 inches long, be­fore felt­ing and block­ing Note: Un­like tra­di­tional felt­ing, the shawl in­creases in size af­ter felt­ing, rather than shrink­ing.


• Alchemy Yarns Silken Straw (fine weight; 100% silk; 236 yds/40g per skein): 2 skeins pea­cock #197C (A) • Alchemy Yarns Sanc­tu­ary (light worsted weight; 70% wool/30% silk; 125 yds/50g per skein): 1 skein pony up #180E (B) • Size 6 (4mm) 32-inch cir­cu­lar nee­dle or

size needed to ob­tain gauge • Stitch mark­ers


20 sts and 32 rows = 4 inches/10cm in garter st, be­fore felt­ing. To save time, take time to check gauge.

Pat­tern Stitch

Lace (mul­ti­ple of 18 sts) Row 1 (RS): Knit. Row 2: Purl. Row 3: [K2­tog] 3 times, *[yo, k1] 6 times, [k2­tog] 6 times, rep from * to 12 sts be­fore marker, [yo, k1] 6 times, [k2­tog] 3 times. Row 4: Knit.

Rep Rows 1–4 for pat.

Spe­cial Tech­nique

The shawl is knit in a tra­di­tional man­ner and then felted in a wash­ing ma­chine to achieve the shi­bori effect. We do not rec­om­mend any fiber sub­sti­tu­tions, due to the spe­cific con­tent and con­struc­tion of the yarns fea­tured in the shawl.

Pat­tern Notes

All color changes and stitch in­creases oc­cur on RS rows.

This shawl is worked from the neck down.

The lace panel is cen­tered in the shawl and is worked be­tween stitch mark­ers. All other stitches are worked in garter stitch (knit ev­ery row).

Please read the side­bar notes care­fully for best method of shi­bori felt­ing process.


Sec­tion 1 With A, cast on 20 sts.

Knit 1 row. Set-up row (WS): K1, pm, k18 (cen­ter lace panel), pm, k1. Note: Slip mark­ers on fol­low­ing rows as you come to them. Row 1 (RS): Kfb, work Row 1 of Lace pat to next marker, kfb—22 sts. Row 2: K2, work Row 2 of Lace pat to next marker, k2. Row 3: K1 (edge st), kfb, work Row 3 of Lace pat to next marker, kfb, k1 (edge st)—24 sts. Row 4 and all WS rows: Work even. Row 5: K1, [kfb] twice, work pat to marker, [kfb] twice, k1—28 sts. Rows 7, 9, and 11: K1, kfb, knit to 1 st be­fore marker, kfb, work pat to marker, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1—40 sts at end of Row 11. Row 12: Work even. Rows 13–16: Rep Rows 9–12—48 sts. Rows 17–20: With B, knit all sts and inc on each RS row as be­fore—56 sts.

Note: Carry A loosely along edge of work. Cut B at end of Row 20.

Sec­tions 2–7

Con­tinue in es­tab­lished pat, inc 4 sts ev­ery RS row and work­ing lace pat be­tween mark­ers when us­ing A and work­ing in garter st when us­ing B.

For each sec­tion work [4-row Lace pat] 4 times, then 4 rows in garter st—40 ad­di­tional sts in each sec­tion.

At end of Sec­tion 7—296 sts.

Lace Bor­der

Row 1 (RS): With A, knit across row, inc 4 sts as be­fore and at the same time inc 3 evenly spaced in garter st sec­tions on ei­ther side of mark­ers—306 sts. Note: There are no ad­di­tional incs af­ter this row. Row 2 (WS): Purl. Row 3: Work Row 3 of Lace pat. Row 4: Knit.

Rep [Rows 1–4 of Lace pat] 5 more times. Next row (RS): Knit.

Bind off all sts loosely.


Weave in all ends and be sure there are no dropped sts be­fore beg felt­ing process as de­scribed on page 58.

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