First Make Your Pair of Socks From the Cuff Down

Creative Knitting - - FROM HEAD TO TOE - By TA­BETHA HEDRICK

Learn sock-mak­ing from cast-on through bind-off in this com­pre­hen­sive step-by-step tu­to­rial.

To make a sim­ple pair of cuff-down socks, you will need sock-weight yarn, a set of four dou­ble-point nee­dles (dpns), a few lock­ing stitch mark­ers (op­tional) and a ta­pes­try nee­dle.

Us­ing one dpn, cast on the num­ber of stitches called for in the pat­tern, as shown in Photo 1.

When work­ing in the round, start by di­vid­ing the stitches over three dpns. To do this, sim­ply slip 1/3 (or so) of the stitches onto a se­cond dpn, then slip an­other 1/3 of stitches onto a third dpn, as shown in Photo 2. The re­main­ing 1/3 of the stitches are left on the first nee­dle.

It is com­mon to see the phrase “be­ing care­ful not to twist the stitches” when join­ing in the round. This sim­ply means that the chain of cast-on stitches should not spi­ral around the nee­dle.

Af­ter mak­ing sure all of the stitches are prop­erly aligned, hold the nee­dle tips so that the first cast-on stitch is to the left and the last stitch (with the tails hang­ing from it) is on the right. To join in the round, make sure that the tail is hang­ing to the front and the work­ing yarn is moved to the back, on top of the nee­dles. Slip the first stitch from the left-hand dpn to the right-hand dpn (Photo 3).

Then, lift the old first stitch on the right-hand dpn (the one with tails hang­ing from it) up and over the just­slipped stitch to the left-hand dpn. The stitches at each end have changed places with this spe­cial join, cre­at­ing a cir­cle (Photo 4).

Use the yarn tail to act as the be­gin­ning-of-round marker. Each time you work to it, one round has been com­pleted.

Now, in­sert a new nee­dle (Photo 5)— the fourth dpn—into the first stitch and work as the pat­tern states for the cuff and leg.

Each time you fin­ish the stitches on one nee­dle, use the newly emp­tied nee­dle to work across the stitches on the next nee­dle in the round, cre­at­ing a long tube for the leg (Photo 6). The heel flap is worked flat, so the heel stitches will be slipped to one dpn

Photo 6

Photo 2

Photo 5

Photo 3

Photo 4

Photo 1

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