Har­vest Co­coon

Wrapped in the warmth of a hand­knit co­coon, you’ll be ready to take on the sea­son with lay­ers be­neath to keep warm and the per­fect top­per to keep it all to­gether.

Creative Knitting - - CONTENTS - De­sign by Rosann Fleis­chauer

Gauge

18 sts and 28 rows = 4 inches/10cm in St st, blocked. 16 sts and 20 rows = 5 inches/12.5cm in Lace Mesh pat, blocked. To save time, take time to check gauge.

Pat­tern Stitches

2x1 Rib (mul­ti­ple of 3 sts + 2) Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, k1, p1, *k2, p1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. Row 2: Sl 1, p1, k1, *p1, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.

Rep Rows 1 and 2 for pat. Lace Mesh Pat (mul­ti­ple of 4 sts + 4) Row 1 (RS): K4, *yo twice, k4; rep from * to end. Row 2: P2, *p2­tog, (p1, k1-tbl) into the dou­ble yo, p2­tog; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2. Row 3: K2, yo, *k4, yo twice; rep from * to last 6 sts, k4, yo, k2. Row 4: P3, *[p2­tog] twice, (p1, k1-tbl) into the dou­ble yo; rep from * to last 7 sts, [p2­tog] twice, p3.

Rep Rows 1–4 for pat.

Pat­tern Notes

Wrap is knit as 2 rec­tan­gu­lar pieces worked side­ways: front panel and back/sleeves.

A “chan­nel” is formed by a col­umn of purl stitches along the side edges of the back/sleeve piece; seams will be sewn into this chan­nel.

Work large gauge swatches (at least 6 inches x 6 inches) in each pat­tern. Wet-block. If stitch gauge matches gauge given in the pat­tern and row gauge doesn’t, use your own row gauge to de­ter­mine the num­ber of rows needed to be worked to achieve the in­tended mea­sure­ments.

A cir­cu­lar nee­dle is used to ac­com­mo­date the large num­ber of stitches; do not join to work in the round.

Back/Sleeves

With A, cast on 125 sts.

Work 6 rows in 2x1 Rib, end­ing with a WS row. Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, k1, p1, knit to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Row 2: Sl 1, p1, k1, purl to last 3 sts, k1, p2.

Rep Rows 1 and 2 un­til piece mea­sures 45 inches, end­ing with a WS row. Work 6 rows in 2x1 Rib. Bind off all sts.

Front

With B, cast on 68 sts. Knit 2 rows. Beg with a RS row, work in Lace Mesh

Pat un­til piece mea­sures 231/2 inches, end­ing with a Row 4. Knit 2 rows. Bind off all sts.

Fin­ish­ing

Weave in ends.

With WS fac­ing, wet-block back to 47 inches x 261/2 inches, tak­ing care to al­low the side edges of the fab­ric to lie flat.

With RS fac­ing, wet-block front to 231/2 inches x 21 inches where the cas­ton/bound-off edges are 21 inches and side edges are 231/2 inches.

Re­fer­ring to photo as nec­es­sary, po­si­tion the front panel on top of the back/sleeves piece as fol­lows:

With WS of back/sleeves piece and RS of front panel fac­ing up, align 1 side edge of the front with a side edge of the back (now the top of the wrap). There will be ap­prox 51/2 inches of back fab­ric vis­i­ble at the bot­tom below the front.

Cen­ter front panel on top of back so that there are 12 inches of the back vis­i­ble on ei­ther side; these will be the sleeves.

Fold the top left cor­ner of the back down to meet the bound-off edge of the front and pin in place with the apex of the cor­ner touch­ing the bound-off edge.

Fold the bot­tom left cor­ner of the back up to meet the bound-off edge of the front. Re­move pin and over­lap the bot­tom back cor­ner with the top back cor­ner, then pin all 3 lay­ers in place. Rep for right side. Us­ing seam­ing method of your choice, sew the sides of the back to the cast-on/bound-off edges of the front tog as pinned. Note: The seams on the sam­ple were sewn into the purl col­umn at the side edges of the back so that the first 2 sel­vage sts roll for­ward.

To cre­ate the neck open­ing, sew a shoul­der seam 41/2 inches long across the top, join­ing the side edge of the back to the side edge of the front. Rep on other side. If de­sired, ad­just the length of shoul­der seams for a cus­tom­ized fit.

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