Cruising World

PIRATES & PIECES OF EIGHT IN PORTOBELO

- — Nadine Slavinski

Panama is full of fascinatin­g nooks and crannies, the most striking of which might well be historic Portobelo. Columbus first charted this deep cut in Panama’s Caribbean shoreline in 1502. At the heyday of Spain’s New World conquests, Portobelo acted as a collection point for huge quantities of gold and silver — the treasure chest of the Americas, so to speak. To this day, imposing fortresses bristling with canons greet incoming sailors. For us, what was originally just a steppingst­one between the idyllic San Blas islands and gritty Colon, gateway to the Panama Canal, quickly became a highlight in its own right. We spent days exploring Unesco-recognized forts and climbing the creaky stairs of the historic Customs House, where our imaginatio­ns turned the cruising fleet into galleons and passing tourists into the pirates who hunted them.

Two of Portobelo’s more prominent “visitors” include Henry Morgan, who sacked the town in 1671, and Sir Francis Drake, who is said to have been buried at sea off Portobelo in 1596. Our own little pirate had a great time exploring the balustrade­s himself, and we spent a memorable Christmas and New Year’s Eve in this fascinatin­g town that still plays prominentl­y in our cruising memories.

Intrigued by pirates? John Masefield’s 1912 book, On the Spanish Main, chronicles the exploits of buccaneers like Sir Francis Drake and Henry Morgan, who preyed upon the Spanish treasure pipeline in the Americas. This book was hot reading among canal workers in the post-roosevelt years — and nowadays, the e-book edition is free thanks to Project Gutenberg. Look for it on Amazon or other online bookstores.

David Mccullough’s epic The Path Between the Seas is a history of the Panama Canal. We zipped through the 700 pages of this incredible book while cruising both coasts of Panama.

 ??  ?? Markus and son Nicky trace the footsteps of pirates while exploring the hills above Portobelo, Panama.
Markus and son Nicky trace the footsteps of pirates while exploring the hills above Portobelo, Panama.

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