AN ITALIAN COMFORT-FOOD CLASSIC

Remove tough stems from kale or other greens and slice thinly. Set aside. Heat 1/4 cup of the olive oil in a heavy pot or Dutch oven. (Add pancetta, if using, and cook till a bit of fat is rendered.) Add garlic, onion, carrots and celery, and saute until softened, being careful not to let the garlic brown. Mash 1 cup of the beans with the back of a spoon or potato masher. Add to the pot tomatoes, herbs, all beans and water (to reach desired broth consistency).

Add sliced greens, and simmer until wilted and soft, about 10 minutes. Add Swiss chard, if using, and simmer for another 5-10 minutes, until all greens are wilted and carrots are tender. Season to taste.

Top soup bowls with rounds of hearty bread, drizzle with remaining olive oil, and sprinkle with freshly grated Parmesan. (If you have a microwave on board, heat bowls briefly to melt cheese before eating.)