cuisine class Meringue RLD WO of ME RI N G U E S the d un ro A While all meringues are featherweight and ethereal, they’re not all created equally. Originating from different European traditions, we’re exploring the similarities and differences of all three types. IN ITS MOST BASIC FORM, a meringue is simply egg whites whipped with sugar. The air whipped into the whites causes them to foam and increase in volume (by up to eight times), while the sugar stabilizes the foam as well as sweetens it. Sometimes a stabilizing agent, such as cream of tartar, lemon juice, or distilled white vinegar is added. From soufflés to pie toppings to cookies and Pavlova (see page 79), meringue can be served any number of ways. But not all meringues are the same. There are in fact three major types: French, Swiss, and Italian. The distinction depends on how the key ingredients — egg whites and sugar — are combined and whether any heat is involved in the process. This is an overview of the three, a few facts to keep in mind, and some best practices to follow when making meringue. 52