Cuisine at Home

how to read an OLIVE OIL LABEL * A good French Dijon and local honey also make a world of difference.

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You can learn a lot about a bottle of olive oil by reading the front and back labels. Proper packaging and the presence of important informatio­n indicate a producer who is proud of how their oil was made. Here is what the labeling means:

PACKAGING Light and air cause olive oil to deteriorat­e quickly, so first notice how it’s packaged. Look for tin containers, or bottles that are dark, foil-wrapped, or boxed. Also make sure there’s an airtight seal on the cap. (Good olive oil can also come in clear bottles, but should include instructio­ns on proper storage.)

GRADE & PROCESSING Olive oils are labeled according to grade (see chart, left), which tells you that the oil meets certain criteria set by governing boards. Higher quality oil may indicate it was “cold extracted” or “made by mechanical means only.”

ACIDITY LEVEL The acidity level of olive oil doesn’t make it taste sour — it’s actually an indicator of how long the olives were exposed to air before processing. Thus, the lower an oil’s acidity level, the higher its quality, and producers may include the percentage on the label. The internatio­nal standard for extra-virgin oil is below .8% (and oil from California must be below .5%).

OLIVE VARIETIES Producers will often list the olive variety (or varieties) used to make their oil, which may give it a specific flavor. A few examples of olives used to make oil are arbequina (Spain), leccino (Italy), koroneiki (Greece), and picholine (France).

PRODUCER & COUNTRY OF ORIGIN “Estate Bottled” means the olives were grown, processed, and bottled on the same property. If the label states that it’s a product of a certain country, the oil was bottled there, but the olives may have been grown and processed elsewhere.

HARVEST/BOTTLING DATE These dates are a good indication of an oil’s shelf life. Avoid oil that is close to the end of its 2– to 3-year life span. A stamped or handwritte­n harvest date (evidence of a human touch) may indicate a better quality oil.

Now that you know all about olive oil, let’s look at how to make a classic vinaigrett­e.

And, since there typically aren’t many ingredient­s in a vinaigrett­e, we recommend buying the best extra-virgin olive oil and vinegar that you can. White wine vinegar is probably the most standard in a classic vinaigrett­e, but red wine vinegar, sherry vinegar, or Champagne vinegar are good options, too.

THE STAPLES

A classic vinaigrett­e includes a few staples, minced shallots and Dijon mustard (the latter helps with emulsifica­tion … more on that in a sec) along with good (sea or kosher) salt and freshly ground black pepper. We also tend to add a little honey for flavor (and again, for help with emulsifica­tion, aka to act as a binder or stabilizer of the oil and vinegar). But the best part about making vinaigrett­es is that you can fiddle with the ingredient­s while you’re making it — adding a little more of this or that as you go, according to your taste.

THE RATIO

A classic vinaigrett­e follows a 3:1 ratio, meaning three parts oil to one part vinegar (or citrus juice) plus seasonings — ingredient­s like shallots, garlic, fresh or dried herbs, or spices. On our staff, we all have our own preference­s. Some prefer a tangier taste so opt for a 3:2, a 2:1, or even a 1:1 ratio. It comes down to your palate and your preference, what you’re dressing, and what else you’re eating at your meal. It also depends upon the acidity (and “sweetness”) of your vinegar and/or citrus juices.

THE METHOD

Mince some shallots or garlic (start with 1–3 Tbsp. shallots and/or 1–3 tsp. garlic — but that really does depend upon how much oil and vinegar you will ultimately add). Add the minced shallots (or garlic) to a jar with a tight-fitting lid, add some salt and black pepper (mainly to allow the salt to dissolve), and the vinegar. Allow the shallots or garlic to sit (or pickle) in the vinegar from a few minutes to a few hours. This allows the shallots or garlic to mellow and soften a little — the longer they pickle the more mellow they become. Next, add the Dijon and honey (start with ½–2 tsp. Dijon and 1 tsp.–2 Tbsp. honey — again, that depends upon how much oil and vinegar you will ultimately add and the acidity of your vinegar). Finally, add your oil, put the lid on the jar, and shake. To taste your vinaigrett­e, dip a clean lettuce leaf into the vinaigrett­e, then adjust the ingredient­s to whatever will please your palate.

* The beauty of making your vinaigrett­e in a jar is that you can store the jar in the refrigerat­or.

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