grades of olive oil

IN THE KITCHEN There’s nothing wrong with having more than one type of olive oil in your pantry. But if you keep only one kind, make it extra-virgin or virgin. They’re quite versatile, especially in dishes where their flavor is pronounced, such as in vinaigrettes and baked goods, or as a finishing or dipping oil. When sautéing or frying, however, avoid using extra-virgin or virgin oil — their flavor characteristics fade at high temperatures. Pure olive oil is best for that type of job.

STORAGE Heat and light cause olive oil to turn rancid, so store bottles in a cool, dark place away from the stove. Airtight, nonreactive containers, such as stainless steel or glazed ceramic, also help keep it fresh, as do dark glass bottles. Olive oil may be refrigerated but it will solidify — bring it to room temperature before using. With proper storage, the oil can last 2–3 years.

EXTRA-VIRGIN Considered the highest quality, extra-virgin oil is the first oil extracted from freshly crushed or chopped olives. It must be made without heat or chemicals and be low in acidity. Highly flavorful, this oil is best used in vinaigrettes or to finish dishes.

VIRGIN This grade is processed like extra-virgin oil, but has a higher acidity level (see “how to read an olive oil label,” right). Usually less expensive than extra-virgin, flavor can be quite good, although often not as intense.

OLIVE OIL Sometimes labeled as “pure,” this oil is often a blend of extravirgin, virgin, and refined olive oil (which has been processed with chemicals to remove impurities). It lacks the flavor of extra-virgin and virgin oils, and is best used for sautéing or frying.

POMACE OIL By using heat and chemicals, this oil is extracted from the leftover pulp, or pomace, of extra-virgin and virgin oil processing. It is considered the lowest quality olive oil.