Ditch the mountains this winter; here’s your itinerary
Editor’s note: This is Par t I of a two-par t series. Check out Tuesday’s Get Out page for more.
While your neighbors head to the high countr y, why not turn your sights south this winter — where perfect pandemic escapes await within a few hours’ drive from Denver.
Scener y? Gorgeous. Weather? Sunny and pleasant. Lodging? Many choices. Good food? Oh yeah, and a surprising variety. Social distancing? No problem. Beaches? Well, it won’t be bikini weather but there are lakes.
You can easily build your own itinerar y for a winter getaway to southern Colorado and alleviate that cabin fever.
Check out the state’s newest wine trail in Fremont County, go on a fossil hunt, linger over brunch on the Historic Arkansas River walk in Pueblo, get your Pueblo chile fix, soak up the majesty of the Spanish Peaks, visit an art car museum, camp where you can walk to a year-round golf course, or immerse yourself in the region’s histor y. Or all the above.
We’re offering a couple itineraries, and plenty of options to swap in or lengthen the trip. Who says a getaway is only two or three days?
A couple of cautions:
•We still are in a pandemic. Check websites or call places before you go, and be flexible. Tourism and business folks say they’re tr ying to keep customers happy, but must abide by health depar tment rules and stay solvent and healthy. Show ’em some love.
•Winters generally are mild and sunny in southern Colorado (did you know Cañon City boasts of being the Climate Capital of Colorado?), but it does sometimes snow and you could face similar wintr y driving conditions as faced in the mountains. Check the weather and road conditions. Just a bit of snow in the high winds that sometimes sweep across Interstate 25 south of Pueblo can quickly cause treacherous conditions.
Arkansas River Valley
A bit of romance: 2 nights in Pueblo, wine in Fremont County
Friday afternoon/evening traffic on I-25 through The Gap can be tr ying, but it’s usually less stressful than I-70 into the mountains. Head to Pueblo after work (or earlier if you can).
There are plenty of motel and hotel options near U.S. 50, and parking is plentiful near the Historic Arkansas River walk of Pueblo. But for just a few more dollars you can stay on or near the River walk, itself. There’s a couple of Marriott options and the unique Station on the River walk, a boutique hotel housed in Pueblo’s former police station and jail along with The Clink lounge and Brues Alehouse.
The hotel of fers seven “cells,” some with fireplaces or private patios, and if you happen to have kids along there is one with authentic jail cell bunks. Stroll along the River walk under twinkling lights as you sur vey your dining and cocktail options (reser vations advised if you’re splurging at Twenty One Steak).
If you’re looking for one of Pueblo’s famous sloppers – a burger smothered in green chile – walk a few blocks to the historic
Gray’s Coors Tavern on Fourth Street to taste the original. Is it the best slopper? Not going there. But you can find other recommendations online, including a Food Wars slopper contest, and a fun Chamber of Commerce video.
The Pueblo River walk website has links to its restaurants, lodging and attractions, including a guide to the more than 50 pieces of ar t installed along it and at adjacent Lake Elizabeth. But save the ar t for the morning.
Tonight, take a shor t detour off the Riverwalk at South Union Avenue and head southwest toward D Street. Turn right and then left into the alley – Neon Alley, a must-see. The alley between B and D streets boasts the largest collection of neon lights between Times Square and Las Vegas. Pueblo attorney and native son Joe Koncilja began collecting neon years ago, and this is his passion on display, free of charge.
Breakfast options are almost nil on the River walk but there are options nearby, including cafes on historic Union Boulevard and Solar Roast Cof fee on North Main Street. Take your cof fee and check out the ar t and other attractions in the 32-acre River walk park. Or stop in the Sangre de Cristo Arts Center,
where you will need a timed ticket for entr y. But don’t linger, you’ll want to head west toward Penrose, Florence and Cañon
City before noon to start touring the wineries and cideries.
Fremont County has long been known for its apple orchards, but vineyards have dotted the landscape since Italian immigrants settled in the region to work in the coal mines. Now vineyards are being nurtured again and several boutique wineries have recently opened. Efforts to create a wine trail and market the area as a wine and hard cider destination were just getting under way when the pandemic shutdown hit, but things have opened back up a little, and the owners hope to of fer weekend tastings through the winter, said Justin Jenkins, owner of Western Skies Winery in Penrose, even if only by appointment.
Jenkins opened his winer y about a year ago, and Christina and James Roth opened Brush Hollow Winer y in March — and almost immediately had to shut down. They have a large outdoor patio and have added an outdoor fireplace with a plan for fireside tastings. They’ve joined with four other wineries (cideries are classified as wineries) in an ef for t to bring people to the region for tastings. Saturday afternoon is your best bet to find most of them open. They’re all within about 20 miles of each other, and of fer snacks, food trucks or food from nearby restaurants.
You can start in Penrose at Apple Valley Cider Co., just of f Colorado 115 on Broadway. Then move on to C Squared Ciders, which moved from Denver to Penrose earlier this year and opened its tasting room in December. It’s open noon-8 p.m. Saturday and noon-5 p.m. Sunday as well as other days by appointment (call 720-5707824). Western Skies is nearby and Brush Hollow is just to the west, on the other side of Colorado 115.
Then head south on 115 through Florence toward the southern edge of
Cañon City for a stop at Legatum Cellars, which has its own park and gazebos. The final stop is at the largest and most established, The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey in Cañon City, which opened in 2002. The gift shop is open daily, but reser vations are required for tastings because of social distancing requirements. Winter tastings will be on a newly winterized front porch, with an al fresco menu available from the Abbey Events Center kitchen, said founding par tner Sally Davidson.
If you’ve munched along the wine trail you’re probably ready to head back to Pueblo, but you could grab desser t at Happy Endings Caboose Café in Cañon
City or at Gooseberry Patch in Penrose. Some food suggestions:
•Nir vana, Cañon City, for great Indian food, especially the vegetarian selections. Warning: they are true on the hotness scale; Indian hot is face numbing.
•The Owl Cigar Store, Cañon City, an old-style diner, not a cigar store. Reminiscent of White Castle or Wimpy burgers, with small burgers, great fries and the best milkshakes for miles. Closes early.
•Gooseberry Patch, Penrose, for that great comfort food: fried chicken. Do yourself a favor, share the huge four-piece dinner and save room (maybe) for homemade pie. Or just have pie. You’re welcome.
•Happy Endings Caboose, for a luscious crepe, sweet or savor y. Currently open limited hours, Friday-sunday.
On Sunday, have a leisurely brunch at Brues Alehouse and before driving home head east on Santa Fe Drive (Business 50) to stock up on some Pueblo goodies, such as Pueblo chiles, pizzelles (including red or green chile varieities) and potica, at local farm stands and bakeries. Options include: Millberger Farms, Mauro Farms & Bakery, and Peppers and Petals.