Code indicates issue with vehicle’s wheel sensor
Q. I recently purchased a scan tool and have a 2016 Chevrolet Colorado two-wheel drive pickup truck. When I checked for codes (no check engine light) just trying out the scan tool, I get a code. What does the C0035 code mean and how do I repair it? By the way, sometimes the code is there and other times not at all. A . The code is an issue with the left front wheel sensor. The problem can be the sensor itself (most common) the wheel bearing is badly worn, or the hub is worn. I wouldn’t expect to see an issue with a worn bearing unless the mileage is very high. I suspect there is a wire to the sensor that is damaged that makes and breaks a circuit and causes the code to set. Replacing the sensor will most likely cure the issue. Q . I know that recent colder evening temperatures can cause the tire pressure warning systems to indicate low tire pressures, but my 2006 Lexus SC 430 seems to have an indicator that continually goes on and off. I have had the tire pressure checked out and they also tried to use a scanner device to try to find the problem without success. I have seen a video online that tells how to completely shut the indicator off but I’m not sure I want to go that route. Any idea what might be causing the indicator to go on and off?
A . The problem could be the sensors are just nearing the end of their life. The style sensor in your Lexus is referred to as a direct-style sensor. These sensors use a radio signal that connects to the car to monitor the tire pressure. The sensors are powered by a non-replaceable battery. The typical life of these sensors is seven to 10 years. At this point, depending on the tire condition it may make sense to replace the four sensors when the tires need replacement. Until then, check the tire pressure once a month with a tire gauge.
Q . My 2016 Ford Explorer Sport has about 111,000 on the odometer, and overall, the vehicle has been fantastic. The one issue I have is when I’m going at extremely slow speeds, like parking lot speeds, and I need to turn sharply to the right, I feel a big clunk through the steering wheel, and I hear a big clunk noise coming from the front end. It seems to be coming from the right side of the front end. I’ve had the dealer look at it and they said nothing was wrong. Another person I trust with mechanical matters has told me that it sounds like the front struts and/or strut bearings need to be replaced.
A . The noise you describe is certainly a characteristic of a worn strut mount or bearing. The other area I would look at is the steering shaft, flex or u-joint, these joints can rust/freeze up and make some noise. If it is the strut bearing the sensible repair would be to replace the strut with a complete assembly. These are sometimes referred to as “quick-struts” and are fully assembled with the bearings, mounts, strut and new springs.
Q . I’ve had my 1992 Mercury Sable 3.8 L V6 for more than 30 years and it’s been a great car. At 80,000 miles, during hard acceleration on a highway on-ramp, the check engine light fluttered for a bit and then went off. Since it was brief, I ignored it until it happened again a couple of weeks later at the same location in the same circumstances. My Ford dealer diagnosed a bad head gasket. I had the head gaskets replaced and all was well for close to 120,000 miles. About three years ago, the check engine light came on, and a part in the transmission was replaced. Now occasionally during hard acceleration, the check engine light comes on. I can’t help but wonder whether this is a repeat of the incipient head-gasket failure at 80,000 miles that I had caught early. At 200,000 miles, is this engine reaching the end of the line? Clearly, another replacement of the head gaskets would cost more than the value of the car. How long would the engine hold any error diagnostic codes? Without the diagnostic equipment for this engine, would I have to wait for things to get much worse to know that I’ve got a failing head gasket? My biggest problem is no Ford dealer near me has the tools to work on my car. The car runs and looks great. What should I do?
A . Although the dealer may not have diagnostic equipment, most independent repair shops should be able to run a diagnostic test of this engine. In fact, you don’t actually need a scan tool on these older Ford products. At this point, could it be a head gasket again? It is possible. There are fairly easy ways to look for this problem. There are kits that a shop can buy that can detect combustion gases in the radiator that would indicate a leaking head gasket. The other method is if you can find someone with an exhaust gas analyzer (old tool) and it can also be used to look for a leak. At this point, I would check the coolant and oil levels and find an independent shop that is comfortable working with these older Ford computer systems referred to as EEC IV. Some shops may have dedicated tools. Others may just use the vehicle self-diagnostic mode. Then wait until the check engine light comes on and try to get into the shop as soon as possible. The code will stay in memory for about 20-80 restarts.